Anyone into Sewing?

H Pwrote:

How do you accurately pin and cut fabric? It feels like I can’t pin stuff right so it stays in place, and I’m getting really messy edges when I cut with scissors. I’m wanting to make a few things like an apex climb shield quilt, a bivy, a hammock, etc 

If you are talking about fraying, try to burn the edges of s synthetic fabric with a candle or heat gun. Just like webbing. Or pinking shears

H Pwrote:

How do you accurately pin and cut fabric? It feels like I can’t pin stuff right so it stays in place, and I’m getting really messy edges when I cut with scissors. I’m wanting to make a few things like an apex climb shield quilt, a bivy, a hammock, etc 

To follow up on the rotary cutter end of things, you can also put a big piece of sheet metal ($20 at Lowe's) under your cutting mat and then use magnets to hold the fabric in place, it's reduced the issues I've had with screwing up with the rotary cutter. For pinning, some people use hemming tape instead, though I don't have any experience with it. 

John Ryterwrote:

To follow up on the rotary cutter end of things, you can also put a big piece of sheet metal ($20 at Lowe's) under your cutting mat and then use magnets to hold the fabric in place, it's reduced the issues I've had with screwing up with the rotary cutter. For pinning, some people use hemming tape instead, though I don't have any experience with it. 

Genius. Thank you 

I've been inspired by this thread in the past, so here are a few photos and nerdy thoughts to hopefully contribute to that psych a little bit.  My construction is pretty rough and the closer you look the more little mistakes and errors you'll find, but it's been fun nonetheless.

The white one is a ~35L pack aimed at overnight alpine snow/ice routes that require a bivy.  Construction is EPLX200 with a double bottom, and Robic 210D for the roll top, shoulder strap outers, and some other details.

The blue one is ~20-25L, intended for in-a-day alpine rock and multipitch ice, or alpine climbing with a minimalist bivy.  It's mostly EPX200, except for the bottom which is EPLX400, Robic 210D for the roll top and interior, and 400D ripstop nylon for the shoulder strap fronts.  I think I will lean towards the EPL200 over EPLX200 moving forward, the 70d interior should hold stitches better and be more durable and I don't generally seam tape these.

Gray is a carry-on clamshell bag for travel, sized to be the maximum volume possible in an airline overhead bin (9x14x22, roughly 45L).  The outer of this is EPLX400, with some interior details in various colors/weights of Robic.

The white pack is sorta modeled after a BD Speed 40 (sans brain) in terms of size and shape, because I have used a stripped-down Speed 40 on a bunch of routes in Alaska and the PNW.  It has a simpler back construction (foam only, no frame), webbing only for the hip belt, and a simpler/better top closure system.  

The smaller pack is similar to the Mammut Trion 28 (one of my most well-loved bags) with a simpler flat back and removable bivy pad, and the addition of a lid flap with pocket and a small interior stash pocket.  It should be able to carry skis in A-frame or diagonally as well.

Here are a few other photos of different angles of the bags and some interiors:

And here's an example of what the white bag was designed to carry; large down parka, -10 deg bag, insulated pad, Firstlight tent body, stove system, food, water, some spare layers, and misc. little stuff.  This all fits with the roll top fully closed, and doesn't interfere with my helmet or harness.  More volume (5-10L?) is available with the roll top up for approaching, although it isn't a great load hauler due to the webbing hip belt and flexible backpanel.

Being summer in the PNW, I haven't actually used any of these very much, as I've just been out trail running and cragging and not doing a lot of cold alpinism.  Looking forward to testing them out more, and probably learning a bunch of lessons to make the next batch better.

Strong work, Kyle!!  Thank you for sharing 

John Ryterwrote:

To follow up on the rotary cutter end of things, you can also put a big piece of sheet metal ($20 at Lowe's) under your cutting mat and then use magnets to hold the fabric in place, it's reduced the issues I've had with screwing up with the rotary cutter. For pinning, some people use hemming tape instead, though I don't have any experience with it. 

Holy crap this is actually a gamechanger. I'll have to get a big cutting mat and a piece of sheet metal to use. I have some Ecopak eplx I need to use, I already have the fabric marked, all my notions, and the webbing cut for a pack. I have a decent pair of scissors, I just don't trust myself with them. It'll be easier to cut this than the really warped cheap twills and flannels I was practicing with 

I know most of y'all rack on your harness. I do that for sport. But for trad I learned to rack on my shoulder and never saw a reason to change. I carry a big rack for my big hands, quads in yellows and blues. I sewed two leather lined shoulder slings out of 3/4" webbing and ensolite. (first one was too small). Buckles are from a Metolius leg loop. Red fabric is two inch tubular split open. The gear loop sling is separate from the shoulder pad and  replaceable.

Vinyl tubing is too bendy. This 3/8" ID polyethylene tubing is perfect for 3/4" Metolius tubular sling webbing. 

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My 2010 walking foot Juki DU-1181N

I’m sure this has been asked before but the thread has gone to 43 pages and I do not have time to manually search though here… 

What’s a good budget machine that can handle multiple layers of webbing, Cordura, X-Pac, and other outdooor materials? I have made a bike frame bag using the cheapest model Singer but it was clearly not the right tool for the job. Reddit says you can buy a vintage machine for cheap, but scouring Ebay I only see vintage things at vintage prices - most often as a display piece that’s more expensive than a modern heavy-duty machine. I’d like to make anything from a chalk bag to more bikepacking bags all the way up to the perfect ski touring pack.

peterfoggwrote:

I’m sure this has been asked before but the thread has gone to 43 pages and I do not have time to manually search though here… 

What’s a good budget machine that can handle multiple layers of webbing, Cordura, X-Pac, and other outdooor materials? I have made a bike frame bag using the cheapest model Singer but it was clearly not the right tool for the job. Reddit says you can buy a vintage machine for cheap, but scouring Ebay I only see vintage things at vintage prices - most often as a display piece that’s more expensive than a modern heavy-duty machine. I’d like to make anything from a chalk bag to more bikepacking bags all the way up to the perfect ski touring pack.

I think Singer HD is considered a decent modern workhorse on a budget. 

For lots of vintage machines, you have to look at Facebook market, goodwill, craigslist. Lots of machines get sold for next to nothing. Even for small repair costs, an older all-metal machine will last for ages - literally just oil and maintenance and they just keep chugging along. There’s a reason you see old school black metal Singer machines that your great grandmother used - they still work, and for what they do, they do it well. 

peterfoggwrote:

I’m sure this has been asked before but the thread has gone to 43 pages and I do not have time to manually search though here… 

What’s a good budget machine that can handle multiple layers of webbing, Cordura, X-Pac, and other outdooor materials? I have made a bike frame bag using the cheapest model Singer but it was clearly not the right tool for the job. Reddit says you can buy a vintage machine for cheap, but scouring Ebay I only see vintage things at vintage prices - most often as a display piece that’s more expensive than a modern heavy-duty machine. I’d like to make anything from a chalk bag to more bikepacking bags all the way up to the perfect ski touring pack.

Are you in Durango CO? If you're quite mechanically inclined, it would be worth going over to Belt Salvage in Cortez. The guy told me they often get old sewing machines in. I got a Singer 15-91 from there that needs a serious overhaul, but I'm convinced that it can be brought back to life. If you are in Colorado and want it, I'll give it to you. I believe the 15-91 is very similar to the 201, which is a beast as far as home machines go. 

The huge antique store across the street from Belt Salvage also has tons of old machines that I thought were priced pretty reasonably, assuming they were in good working order.

peterfoggwrote:

I’m sure this has been asked before but the thread has gone to 43 pages and I do not have time to manually search though here… 

What’s a good budget machine that can handle multiple layers of webbing, Cordura, X-Pac, and other outdooor materials? I have made a bike frame bag using the cheapest model Singer but it was clearly not the right tool for the job. Reddit says you can buy a vintage machine for cheap, but scouring Ebay I only see vintage things at vintage prices - most often as a display piece that’s more expensive than a modern heavy-duty machine. I’d like to make anything from a chalk bag to more bikepacking bags all the way up to the perfect ski touring pack.

i just purchased an 8700 for cheap but up to now have been using a pfaff 130. it's sewn webbing+1000d, limit is about 3 layers of webbing. for vintage ones marketplace is the best option, mine was $70

i just looked for the top models on this list until i found one that was in good condition and cheap

https://vsm.diy.myog.77gearco.com/2023/04/blog-post.html?m=1

Not sure what the budget is but I will second the Juki 8700 H. It has served me well from lighter sil nylon to multiple layers of 1000d cordura and webbing.

Neckties made from retired rope.  Shipped to your door in trade for your $75 donation to ASCA.  PM for donation details.  See all the sewn goods at Will Sew For Bolts on FB & IG.  Help us turn old ropes into new bolts.

Tried my hand at sewing some leather for the first time. New tool bags

Those look great! Well done.

I just got an old singer 401a that supposedly can do some serious work. I guess its the last "all metal" singer(?)

Thanks for more stoke to get into the sewing game more.

I've been repairing a pair of Prana Zion Stretch pants, I got tired of replacing knee patches done in less durable fabrics and tried a pair in 500D Cordura.

It feels ok, but I can definitely feel the lack of stretch. Makes me wonder if I'm using the wrong material, anyone have suggestions on a fabric that's highly durable but stretchy? Googling got me "Schoeller Dynamic" but hard to tell how it compares without having it in hand.

Jay Andersonwrote:

Neckties made from retired rope.  Shipped to your door in trade for your $75 donation to ASCA.  PM for donation details.  See all the sewn goods at Will Sew For Bolts on FB & IG.  Help us turn old ropes into new bolts.

Commenting so i can find this in the future - those are great.

abandon moderationwrote:

I've been repairing a pair of Prana Zion Stretch pants, I got tired of replacing knee patches done in less durable fabrics and tried a pair in 500D Cordura.

It feels ok, but I can definitely feel the lack of stretch. Makes me wonder if I'm using the wrong material, anyone have suggestions on a fabric that's highly durable but stretchy? Googling got me "Schoeller Dynamic" but hard to tell how it compares without having it in hand.

I've never used it on a project, but have seen it advertised for commercial products, maybe check out "Spandura" (Spandex & Cordura): https://www.seattlefabrics.com/50-62-Spandura-Nylon-Spandex-2195-linear-yard_p_156.html 

I made this pack as a super tough multipitcher. I am fond of vest style packs for their security and access to water, phone, snacks, etc but wanted to keep the body simple.

Pack fabric is ultra 400TX which held up really well to chimneying, both wide chimneys with the pack still on and hanging below when things got tight. The shoulder strap mesh pockets got fuzzy from dragging but honestly did better than expected.

400TX is arguably too stiff for a rolltop, but workable especially if you can just add a few inches to the top or flare it like a lot of rolltops do.

Anyone interested in a bartacker. It can be used for sewing backpacks or slings in larger quantities.
I’m currently moving/downsizing my shop in Louisville co. There are a couple other machines for sale