Top belay - Acadia otter cliffs

Do you think that this is a good strategy for top access climbs and belaying? I like the simplicity of it and I know that a lot of the otter cliffs anchors are near your feet. Any input appreciated! 

https://youtu.be/xd0DgTY4oJs?feature=shared

• Build your anchor (or use the staple/eyebolts)
• You tie in the the end of the rope and clove yourself back to the anchor. Position yourself close to the edge so you can see your climber. Being tied in tight to the anchor you can lean over the edge with impunity and give instruction. It's so you don't fall off and splatter your brains on the rocks below.
• Have her tie in and redirect her rope off the anchor. Just to be clear: One end of the rope goes from your tie in and is clove hitched to the anchor. That protects you. The other end goes from your climber's harness tie in up through a locking carabiner at the anchor and then to the belay device on your harness. The locking carabiner at the anchor is like a pulley. Sort of like you were top roping with a bottom belay.
• Belay off your harness.
• Lower her off. (or have her rappel)

Advantages:

• You can see her because you're close to the edge. You can talk her down and back up.
• The redirect is far enough away from the edge that she can get a "running start" and be more comfortable when being lowered. This is an advantage over what's shown in the video
• She's already on belay when she gets to the bottom
• Works well if the tide is in, you don't have a pile of wet rope.
• There will be a big loop of rope between the brake side of your belay device and the clove hitch on the anchor. This is available for self-rescue. If she needs help, you can use the backside of your clove hitch off the anchor to drop a loop and do an assisted hoist.

Thanks!

Nicole Potterwrote:

I know that a lot of the otter cliffs anchors are near your feet. 

BTW, they really aren't. True they are at ground level but most are set back from the edge of the cliff. There is only one that I remember being relatively close to the edge - possibly above "In the Groove". But, IIRC there is also one further back. Some time ago I posted pix of some of the anchors on MP for specific climbs.

Keep in mind that anchoring to trees is verboten! So, you will have to build gear anchors or sling/thread blocks in some places.

Be mindful of sharp/abrasive edges. A carpet square or doormat helps pad the edge. VERY important if top rope soloing but still important for a lower.

Good to know!

A guide for one morning would be extremely worth it.

Hi Nicole! I highly recommend Ryan Howes, at Northern Vertical in Camden.

It looks like they might actually be there this weekend doing a clinic.

https://www.northernvertical.com/Northern Vertical-Professional Maine Rock Climbing & Ice Climbing Guide Services