WI7?

Does WI7 exist? 

Seems like a question that somewhat often gets thrown around. I understand the argument for why it doesn’t but seeing how I’ve climbed a couple things that are hard WI6/WI6+ and how they could of been harder, it seems like grades like WI7/WI8 can occur. Though incredibly rare. And most things that are graded WI7 are usually just WI6R/X like the first ascent of Sea Of Vapors. 

Also I’m just really bored with a sprained finger making these forum posts.

idk, WI4 is hard enough for me

Euros love this grade.

I don’t see it used much around USA/Canada

Daniel Kaywrote:

Euros love this grade.

I don’t see it used much around USA/Canada

They do indeed, almost as much as they like whipping on ice and wearing semi-automatic crampons 

I have called 1 pitch that I followed WI7- once, and that is the only time I have used that grade in my life. Some people though say WI6+ is the hardest it can get tho....Heal up!

Controversial, perhaps, but you can't really have this conversation without at least some reference to Helmcken Falls.  Of course, so few climbers are good/bold/dumb enough to try it, that once you climb something there you can grade it whatever the hell you want and few will be in a position to argue with you.  Will Gadd says, "grades honestly miss the point at Helmcken."

Grant Watsonwrote:

Controversial, perhaps, but you can't really have this conversation without at least some reference to Helmcken Falls.  Of course, so few climbers are good/bold/dumb enough to try it, that once you climb something there you can grade it whatever the hell you want and few will be in a position to argue with you.  Will Gadd says, "grades honestly miss the point at Helmcken."

Yea, helmcken is kinda weird, also to my belief none of those routes have been redpointed? 

It can't be WI7 if it's bolt protected. 

Zac St Juleswrote:

It can't be WI7 if it's bolt protected. 

Grading stops at NEI5+ anyways   

ASAP Beckywrote:

Yea, helmcken is kinda weird, also to my belief none of those routes have been redpointed? 

Well, in the second link in my post, Sarah Hueniken says she onsighted Dire Wolf WI9.  I don't think there's reason to think that any of the first ascents described by various sources are anything less than redpoints.

I remember Joe Joephson and another climber doing a first ascent in Canada they graded 7 in the 90s. As I recall,  it was super super thin, unprotectable for long stretches

C Hwrote:

I remember Joe Joephson and another climber doing a first ascent in Canada they graded 7 in the 90s. As I recall,  it was super super thin, unprotectable for long stretches

FA of SOV. 

Grant Watsonwrote:

Well, in the second link in my post, Sarah Hueniken says she onsighted Dire Wolf WI9.  I don't think there's reason to think that any of the first ascents described by various sources are anything less than redpoints.

I feel like if it’s completely bolt protected than it’s almost a pinkpoint. And I’m aware that there are mix climbs that have some bolts near the ice. But when it’s completely ice with only bolts or in the one case when Will Gadd put in “natural” protection but whipped on each piece before sending to make sure the pro was good. I feel that it sorta needs to be sent on natural gear ground up in order to really be confirmed as a WI13 or whatever. Not to say that they didn’t send these routes. They look incredibly difficult though probably more like dry tooling on ice if that makes any sense. If someone were to lead an ice route with all the screws in I would not say that they “repointed” it. And yes the term “redpoint” is silly to use with ice climbing.

WI of any grade can exist... we just need an adjustable wall so we can farm it vertically and then turn it to the overhanging angle of choice!

I read an article recently about an ice climb called Mission to Mars rated WI13....
https://www.climbing.com/news/video-mission-to-mars-wi13-the-hardest-ice-climb-in-the-world/ 

Mikey Barrowrote:

I read an article recently about an ice climb called Mission to Mars rated WI13....
https://www.climbing.com/news/video-mission-to-mars-wi13-the-hardest-ice-climb-in-the-world/ 

Though I have just realized that this is at Helmcken Falls.

The grade seems legit in terms of shear climbing strength, but calling it a pure ice line seems like kind of a gimmick.

https://vimeo.com/205774713

Not bolted. Also just a bad ass channel that also has the pissing mare falls vid 

take TAKEwrote:

https://vimeo.com/205774713

Not bolted. Also just a bad ass channel that also has the pissing mare falls vid 

Will Mayo is known for proposing kind of ridiculous grades. He def climbs some gnarly stuff but I'm almost positive that is not his first 'wi7' (CO guidebook has a bunch of his if I recall?)