Mescalito, El Capitan Past and Future Climbers Call To Action!

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This thread has gotten a bunch of attention, from what folks tell me - I hope it equates to the dangerous bolts being replaced! Post up if you're in favor or can contribute!

Cheers, E

Yosemitebigwall.com

Hey folks. Hope you are all sending this season. 

Is there any update on the Mescalito re-bolting efforts? Have things gotten better or gotten worse? 

Cheers from Osaka,

John 

tonymclane McLanewrote:

I attempted this one month ago and broke my finger on pitch 9, catching it in an aider. Will definitely never use a one daisy system again, as the free climber instinct to grab is virtually unavoidable if you piece fails when your transitioning to the next. The recent interview with the speed record holders had me worried about blowing a rivet. It would be pretty cool if the route was doable without that worry. I brought a big cheater stick, it seemed like either that or a bolt kit which i didn't have handy. Having to bail near the top as a soloist low on supplies could be pretty screwed up.   

Buddy I feel you, something similar happened to me on pitch 26 of the Muir. Eric Kohl (a quiet legend in Yosemite lore) had even said one time "never let your hands get stuck in the machinery" but it happened so quick, ka-baam.  Heal well. Good news is I've climbed harder since...the body does want to heal (eventually) but certain size cracks still mess with that finger...

What is the status of Mescalito as of now?

I'm going up on it in October and I'll gladly replace a few bolts or rivets. It's not going to be a full on rebolting mission but I'll try to get 5-10 new ones in.

You're the man Mark.

The middle ladders could use some help. Not terrible, but not great. This stellar route deserves the love.

Hey Mark, I'll carry a haul bag for ya to the base to support the mission!

Thanks! 

We will probably arrive around 1 on the 5th of October and will hike a load that afternoon and then the rest of it the next day.

Josh Thompson and I replaced everything to pitch 13 in 2002 - then I had an accident and we had to bail. 

What is the deal with the remainder of the bolts/rivets? 1/4" bolts at the anchors? Old rivets? and if it's "old rivets" what is wrong with them aside from being old?

All anchors good.

Several rivets have failed on parties over the years. Think theyre old buttonheads that were of questionable quality initially? Dont remember much else. I think they look OKish actually (relative to the typical EC stuff anyways), just that a few have failed which casts shade on the others.

Okay, good to know.

I certainly won't be replacing any rivets with modern 3/8" bolts. I'll be replacing them with what is commonly used as "rivet" on most of the other routes I've done, an appropriately sized machine bolt.

Given a quarter inch diameter hole, what would you say the appropriate size machine bolt?

You do you Mark. Id personally enlarge the holes to 3/8 which is quite easy to do if the old rivet comes out clean... but I lean towards a permanent and clean fix rather than on old ethics. 

Perhaps reach out to Kevin aka Failfalling for recs on filling an old 1/4 hole with a new machine head (or I imagine he'd have some other rivet recs for you too.) Ive placed machine heads on super obscure walls, but only in 3/8 holes.

I want to do a good job so I’ll do them however the community wants them done. 

The community wants only 3/8 inch hardware please - or 1/2 inch for anchors. 

3/8 stainless is more than bomber enough for the good rock of Yosemite. 

We are hand drilling after all, and while trying to climb a wall. Anything you do up there is a gift.

Also, I recommend you bring some putty to clean things up if the rivet breaks as youre trying to remove it. Forces your hand into having to putty it and drill a new hole. 

You have a good tuning fork? Greg Barnes of ASCA would probs hook you up if you reach out to him.

Again, you're the man. 

Pete and I are planning to climb Space beginning later this month and I believe our route will cross Mescalito for some pitches. Not sure if those pitches are the ones that need bolt/rivet replacement, but we are bringing a bolt kit for sure. I have everything I need except an extra handle and some tuning forks. Greg B says he does not have any tuning forks and can’t/ won’t? Provide the handle I needed. Anyone want to donate a lightly used tuning forks and/or handle for this effort?

You can use mine C

Sweet! I’ll look you up when I’m in the valley next. Thanks!

Space joins Mescalito for M14 through M19. I see a notation of “bad bolts” on p15, 16 & 17. I’m guessing those are the bolt/rivet ladders everyone is talking about?

Brandon can you send me the topo for Neptune? How many pitches of Space does it follow for the start? Do you have beta for S6-S8, which in Sloan’s book is marked with “fell off in 1997 rockfall”?