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The latest, greatest 2:1 hauling kit

Chris White · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 15

lol. I am thinking to do this the first couple of days. Then switch to 2:1 for a few days. Then 1:1 it the rest of the way. 

Charles Winstead · · Mill Valley · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 184
Rprops wrote:

Gonna need a detailed inspection report of Charles' shoelaces, toothbrush, and hairline before signing up.  You've given us the nitty-gritty on every part of his rack so far, but still lacking these key details. 

K thnx.

Only the finest quality shoelaces for me thanks! And I’m happy to report that I have invested in two of the top rated Petzl Rescue Pulleys at 95% efficiency- making my 2:1 system more efficient than Pete’s. Now, I just need an excuse/partner to get out there and put it to the test. Was thinking about Hail To The Chief on Lower Cathedral Spire… 

Slim Pickens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2023 · Points: 0

I’ll put mine up. It hews pretty closely to the blueprint, but with a couple small but IMO worthwhile refinements.


The ingredients from top to bottom are:

Skot’s medium kit bag

Petzl SMD twistlock for the master point

Trango 18cm dyneema dogbone

Petzl Minitraxion

CMC/Rock Exotica Proswivel 1.1”

Skot’s 3/16” zed cord

Rock Exotica 1.1” prusik minding pulley

Camp 5mm quicklink

Petzl Basic ascender

Petzl Connect Adjust

Petzl SMD wall carabiner


So, like I said, pretty close to the original. But there are three things here that I’m fond of and think are worth highlighting:

1) The quick link that connects the ascender to the lower pulley. The limiting factor for getting the haul point as high as possible is the total stack height of the column created by the 2 pulleys when they meet at the bottom of the pull stroke, the connector between the lower pulley and ascender, plus the ascender itself. That little quick link is a good bit shorter than even a small biner like a nano 22. It’s tiny, it’s lighter than any carabiner and it’s far stronger than it needs to be, rated to 25kn. Every little bit counts.

2) The connect adjust at the termination of the z cord instead of clove hitching a biner or two. To give credit, I cribbed this from an MP user who brought the idea into this thread a page or two back. Brilliant. So quick and convenient to get your z cord length set, as well as being easy to make adjustments on the fly.

3) The dogbone/haul device combo.  The minitraxion is in my opinion THE device to use in this system. It does not need to be detached from the anchor to load your haul line which is fast, convenient and makes it impossible to drop the device. It’s got a considerably larger sheave than the micro, so you’ve got greater efficiency if you’re doing any 1:1 on the device. The ability to girth hitch it to a dogbone eliminates a carabiner from the system, saving a small amount of weight and raising the device a bit compared to where it would be on a shorter dogbone with a bottom carabiner—again, a boon for any 1:1 hauling. I’ve never tried Skot’s wire draw and y’all seem to love it, but I’ve never really understood why steel would be preferable to dyneema here. It doesn’t stretch, swivels freely, and is light and strong af. 

I keep the whole thing in Skot’s medium kit bag. It’s the perfect size. He needs to name a colorway Goldilocks, because that thing is juuuusssssst right. 

Mark Hudon · · San Marcos, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Damn! I like that Connect Adjust mod!

Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645
Mark Hudon wrote:

Damn! I like that Connect Adjust mod!

Concur. Excellent idea!

Cameron J · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 65

I recently noticed a minor failure mode with the cric in the 2:1 kit and was wondering if anyone else had seen the same.

When I clipped a ladder through the eye to step down on and reset the stroke with, I think the carabiner was sometimes interacting with the little pull cord release mechanism and as I would sit back for my next stroke, the teeth in the cric would not engage the rope.


it wasn’t mission critical, just annoying to deal with.

Kyle Pereira · · California · Joined May 2022 · Points: 65
Cameron J wrote:

I recently noticed a minor failure mode with the cric in the 2:1 kit and was wondering if anyone else had seen the same.

When I clipped a ladder through the eye to step down on and reset the stroke with, I think the carabiner was sometimes interacting with the little pull cord release mechanism and as I would sit back for my next stroke, the teeth in the cric would not engage the rope.


it wasn’t mission critical, just annoying to deal with.

This never happened to my with my cric... and it's the only way I've 2:1 hauled thus far.

Cameron J · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 65

After another wall with the 2:1 where I was always careful to make sure the release cord on the cric was out of the way of the carabiner I clipper through the eye I can almost certainly say that this issue arises from the carabiner clipped to the cric interacting with the release cord.

so just make sure that the carabiner isn’t accidentally pulling the release cord on the cric and this issue should not happen.

Jack Mullen · · Crested Butte, CO · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 5

Here's something for the nerds, I upgraded my pulleys (old ones on the right were pretty useless after all).

Having spent enough money, im skipping scott's ultimate zed cord. Instead im trying this round seizing, a technique from sailing ships dating back to probably the 16th or 17th century. One set of wraps pulled bar hard with a marlinspike, covered with a slightly looser set of wraps to protect the first set from abrasion. 

If it's good enough to keep up a few tons of mast, sails, and rigging, I'm sure it's good enough for this application. Much less bulky than a knot but cheaper than a pre-made cord.

We'll see how it holds up

anonymous coward · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 0

That's a cool knot but I think it misses the point of the zed cord, which is that it's ultra-static and very light. If you did that with ultra static cord it would probably function (though a lot of that stuff is very slick so I could be wrong.)

Skot Richards · · Lakewood, CA · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0
anonymous coward wrote:

That's a cool knot but I think it misses the point of the zed cord, which is that it's ultra-static and very light. If you did that with ultra static cord it would probably function (though a lot of that stuff is very slick so I could be wrong.)

You are correct,  the cordlette I make my zeds from is high temp/ wear resistant with a virtually uncutable braided cord.  It also has zero stretch.

The sizing on that eye should work great! I can speak to the performance of the cordlette however…. 

Jack Mullen · · Crested Butte, CO · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 5

Right, not at all trying to devalue the zed chord that Scott makes. Just that I had the cordalette lying around and I figure it's good enough for now. I think it'll be a big improvement over my previous system anyway.

Seemed worth sharing another way to make a low profile eye at home without a machine. And one application for it.

Skot Richards · · Lakewood, CA · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0
Jack Mullen wrote:

Right, not at all trying to devalue the zed chord that Scott makes. Just that I had the cordalette lying around and I figure it's good enough for now. I think it'll be a big improvement over my previous system anyway.

Seemed worth sharing another way to make a low profile eye at home without a machine. And one application for it.

Nothing wrong with utilizing materials you have on hand!!  And learning a new skill!

Chris White · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 15

Nice craftsmanship. I just use an overhand knot. You might as well use a 2inch pulley on the bottom to. 

Skot Richards · · Lakewood, CA · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0
Chris White wrote:

Nice craftsmanship. I just use an overhand knot. You might as well use a 2inch pulley on the bottom to. 

This statement forfeits your access to a 6.5lb ledge.  

And negates any argument you may make about the weight of kit forevermore.   

Randy Vannurden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 55
Skot Richards wrote:

I had plans to real wall test the CRIC a few weekends ago but I sent it to mark for a clinic he was holding.  My planned test would be sub par for sure given the plan was to test it on WF LT. Admittedly not the hardest testing ground.  

I don’t know that the CRIC will completely replace the traditional basic on my personal 2:1 kit,  but I am curious to give it a go.  

2 years later any update on the CRIC? looks like a cleaner setup but maybe less pulley efficiency?

DrRockso RRG · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 1,379

It's a decently efficient pulley with a built in rope grab, what more is there to say? 

Randy Vannurden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 55
DrRockso RRG wrote:

It's a decently efficient pulley with a built in rope grab, what more is there to say? 

I suppose you could inform someone like myself thats looking into building ‘the latest and greatest 2:1 kit’ if the potentially reduced efficiency of the cric is enough of a drawback as to stick with the original setup…. and since ive learned a lot from skot and mark through this forum i like to hear about what they have to say. Thank You Kindly. 

Mark Hudon · · San Marcos, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420
DrRockso RRG wrote:

It's a decently efficient pulley with a built in rope grab, what more is there to say? 

The devil is in the details.

The only thing I didn't like about it was that it didn't fit my hand really well. You need to push the thing down the haul line so that the Zed cord has no slack in it. I could never find a way to grab it comfortably and efficiently.

Rprops · · Nevada · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 2,423

....3D printer nerds have entered the chat.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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