Climbing Technologies Alpine Up Review

rgold wrote:

I've doubled carabiners on ATC-type devices when belaying with thin ropes for years.  Never had to go to three though...  

If you are doubling carabiners for rappelling but not for belaying, you really aren't thinking clearly.  But an absolutely minimal test is not the ordinary double-strand rappel, but rather a single strand rap.  If you need two carabiners for that, you need them for belaying as well.

I´ve gone to three karabiners once (well told my belayer to) leading out the last 4 pitches of a route on a single strand of 8.1mm when the other strand was pressed into service to drag another party up who were well out of their depth due to bad weather.

Fot those interested;-

12mm round bar HMS karabiners (Petzl Attache). ATC XP in high friction mode. 18kg hand braking force.

9mm rope single strand

1 karabiner 1.64kN Braking force

2   "   2.72kN

3  "   3.44kN

8mm rope single strand

1 karabiner 1.13kN

2   "   1.85kN

3   "    2.54kN

climber pat wrote:

 Sadly, you might be the only one smart enough to use two karabiners for belaying. :)    

I always use two biners for lead belay on ice with half/twin ropes. Used two on Sunday with a fresh dry treated 9.1, just in case.

Just got mine - this thing is so cool! I mainly got it for half rope use, but will be trying it for single rope use too. Was at my door when I got home from climbing today, but did basic tests at home. The assisted locking works great with 8.5 doubles and 9.5 single, it even worked with double 6mm cord! Belaying off the anchor with a 9.5 single seemed to require more effort than a GiGi... Didn't try with the 8.5s, assume fine.

For multipitch I always have a GiGi and partner a GriGri w/ an ATC for rappel. Maybe with this device we can get by with the GiGi and the Alpine Up. Definitely can if using doubles though! 

The blue color is awesome!

"If you are doubling carabiners for rappelling but not for belaying, you really aren't thinking clearly.  But an absolutely minimal test is not the ordinary double-strand rappel, but rather a single strand rap.  If you need two carabiners for that, you need them for belaying as well."

This is not necessarily true.  If the person you are belaying is much lighter than you, there is a possibility that you don't need to use double carabiners for belaying.  It really depends on the diameter of the rope and the weight of your partner(s).

I just got an alpine up and am testing it. Any tips out there for releasing the lock when belaying in click up mode? Seems a bit difficult to pull the device back out of it, and the climber needs to definitely unload the rope completely.

So far just testing in the gym with whatever thick rope they have. Maybe it will be easier once I test on my half ropes this weekend. 

Chris McGillwrote:

I just got an alpine up and am testing it. Any tips out there for releasing the lock when belaying in click up mode? Seems a bit difficult to pull the device back out of it, and the climber needs to definitely unload the rope completely.

Keeping hold of the brake strand, put the heels of both hands underneath the device and give a good upward shove.

This is also useful when you land at the base of a rappel, since the device locks when you release the handle.

I've been using one for a few years now, I rave about that thing all the time. It's the best rappel of any device I've ever used by a huge margin. The only assisted braking 2-channel device that even comes close in my opinion is the Mammut Smart Alpine but they don't make it anymore.