Does anyone know this crag in Roxbury CT?

Shay Subramanianwrote:

I'm originally from CT but didn't really start climbing seriously until moving away. Every time I hear about KN (Lord Boltermort) I wonder how one person was able to singlehandedly stonewall sport climbing in an entire state. Did no one just care enough to stand up to him? How did everyone just come to accept that it wasn't worth bolting anything because of one guy with a twisted sense of ethics? Does the local community just not care about developing the sport?

Just seems wild to me, along with the attitude in this thread. Seems like we should be stoked on more people getting out in CT and discovering new crags as opposed to gatekeeping.

Why? Just like any problem, issue, etc. Ninety-nine % of us sit on our hands, do nothing, and complain. 

WF WF51wrote:

Why? Just like any problem, issue, etc. Ninety-nine % of us sit on our hands, do nothing, and complain. 

While maybe a large percentage, not sure 99% though, 'sat on their hands, did nothing, and complained', that was definitely not true for some---and that 'some' included a significant percentage of the active local climbing communities effected. Many people put in a great amount of effort to try to counter him, but with mixed success---largely due to the extensive area involved, many different crags, each with it's individual ownership/management situation.

As Ward said above, in western MA, we have a smaller group of crags in a concentrated area. Even so, it took a lot of leg work and perseverance in the part of multiple people to get the appropriate owners/managers to agree to issue 'no trespass' notices against him ( and it is usually hard enough to convince them to let us even climb on their land in the first place, let alone get them involved in 'internal politics'). It then took long term efforts, again by multiple people, to actually catch him once he was served with those notices---often  involving staking out areas on miserable days, knowing that was when he would 'strike'. And it was on exactly such a day that Ward was able to literally 'catch him in the act', and we were finally able to get him brought before a court and penalized. This took several years of effort.
CT climbers worked hard as well and tried multiple approaches. While they didn't have the same level of success, it hasn't been for lack of effort. It is hard to beat an unemployed 'true believer', who is also very smart and capable, and has all the time in the world!!!! So please don't demean people with generalizations when you really don't know the facts.

CT has more bolted lines now than trad lines, they aren't published for too many reasons to even list (although many of the reasons have been listed on this thread).

Get out and meet folks, they'll share these places. One main problem is access with most off the radar crags. Too many cars at the trailhead always causes problems and sometimes causes closures. Imagine the crew from a NYC gym deciding to go hit this OP crag in 4 different cars. CT is the most populated state in the country per square mile with a million karens and kens ready to call the authorities and get the lawyers involved.

I thought most climbing was done ground up. I had forgotten about the Verdon. 

As a former east coaster who knew a lot of the CT climbers years ago, it does not matter what coast you are on or in the middle, anyone who posts a crag that they were not the absolute 1st party to climb or develop on the interweb is a complete fucking moron.  I’m not even sure why one would even want to post any carg on the interweb, yeah I might be a hypocrite! In a place like CT with lot‘s of people it is even more stupid.  

Posting a climbing area online requires more forethought and consideration than bolting a route, as it almost always has a bigger impact.

Documenting is developing, and to do so carelessly or thoughtlessly ought to be considered a breach of ethics like chipping holds or retrobolting without consensus, but for the most part I don’t think new outdoor climbers are really aware of that.

Frank Blackwrote:

Documenting is developing, 

This is worth repeating.