How to get better at Yosemite bouldering?

Hello all,

I am starting to get into bouldering in Yosemite and I cannot fathom holding on to some of the starting holds. For context I can't hang off a 20mm edge either. I have however been having tons of fun and learning on V0s through out the park. Does anyone have any advice for me starting my Yosemite bouldering journey? Anything that can make the learning curve/ progression curve less steep would be appreciated!

I know my fingers are weak from not being able to hold on to a 20mm edge, so I'm going to start hangboarding and cutting a bit of weight (205lbs current, goal 180, I'm 6'1).

My current plan is to hangboard, loose weight, and keep grinding V0s and 1s when I have the time, but beyond hangboarding is there specific training I should be doing besides getting mileage? Is running laps on boulders stupid? Like doing a problem over and over until your moves are in a smooth controlled style. I've been doing this.

Also open invite to anyone in the valley that wants to boulder after work etc. I have 4 pads in my van that I'm happy to share. 

Hmmm.. there's just not that much for good easy bouldering in the Valley... Something to do with all of the glaciers smoothing everything out.

I'm huge into base traversing wherever I climb, and Yosemite is pretty shite for this. There just aren't good holds on most cliffs or boulders, it's generally blank between the cracks. 

There're a few outlier areas with more boulderable rock. The amphitheatre boulder in curry village is pretty dope (maybe still off limits?) 

You should definitely work on perfecting your form and control of movement, especially if your route selection is limited. Doing hold eliminates is also pretty useful.

A lot of climbing in the valley is a specific style. Just keep climbing and you’ll get used it. If you’re having fun then you’re doing it right!

Laps are awesome. Get some circuits going. Especially when you’re by yourself without a huge stack of pads circuits are the best way to get mileage. Just start with all the easiest boulders in camp 4 or curry or wherever and try to add one problem every session.

If you’ve got weight to lose then you’ll be healthier and climb better without it, but that’s definitely not the reason that you’re climbing V1 not V3. Neither is finger strength or gym training or anything like that. The classics in Yosemite start at 5.0 and V0 so you’re in the right place!

MattBwrote:

I'm huge into base traversing wherever I climb, and Yosemite is pretty shite for this. There just aren't good holds on most cliffs or boulders, it's generally blank between the cracks. 

I’ve heard people traverse the base of middle cathedral, and that in the yonder days of yore, thats how they built the confidence, once they learned the style, to then go up and do some spicy face climbing with massive runouts.

Probably wear a helmet, especially if you’re passing under the congo line on central pillar of frenzy.

Michael Vaillwrote:

A lot of climbing in the valley is a specific style. Just keep climbing and you’ll get used it. If you’re having fun then you’re doing it right!

Laps are awesome. Get some circuits going. Especially when you’re by yourself without a huge stack of pads circuits are the best way to get mileage. Just start with all the easiest boulders in camp 4 or curry or wherever and try to add one problem every session.

If you’ve got weight to lose then you’ll be healthier and climb better without it, but that’s definitely not the reason that you’re climbing V1 not V3. Neither is finger strength or gym training or anything like that. The classics in Yosemite start at 5.0 and V0 so you’re in the right place!

Did we meet at church bowl last year? I was living in a green Prius at the time and I was asking you a bunch of questions about how to get good in the valley.

"Neither is finger strength or gym training or anything like that." - can you expand on this a bit? Is mileage really the only thing I need to focus on? 

Hi Grayson,

I started bouldering in the valley only about 2 years ago, primarily because my girlfriend loves to boulder (I was much more of a roped climber). When I started bouldering in the valley, it would be a good day if I could send a v0, an amazing day if I could send a v1. Since then I’ve progressed significantly and I feel bold enough to call myself a v4 valley boulderer. I can’t think of a specific boulder in the valley I’ve done where I think hang boarding would have done much for me. Rather, focusing on my footwork and focusing on having fun have really helped me progress. I’ve found that there’s a direct correlation between the amount of friends I’m hanging out with and how well I am climbing. My advice would be to get on whatever intrigues you, regardless of the grade, and have fun with it. I have plenty of specific recommendations for problems I fell in love with in the valley that I feel made me better, I’m happy to share them if you’re interested. I’m also happy to share a pad sometime in the valley, just DM me!