Ugly Hardware Only

Old slow children anchor:

Some old thing on castle rock:

Washer stack, nuts barely hanging on ☠️ Tieton I think:

New anchor with lower-offs, but it pinches the rope against the rock and locks off completely. Have to rappel. Also Tieton:

Most ridiculous washer stack I've seen, Exit 38 somewhere I think:

Bolt hanger upside down and tightened in place. Can't clip it without leveraging carabiner horribly, don't fall. 1/2" bolt so my little crag wrench couldn't fit over it to fix it. Exits somewhere:

Great northern slab monstrosity at Index. Idk if it's been cleaned up recently:

I need to find some pictures of some of the anchors at Devils Punchbowl in So Cal.  One of the anchors has manky rusty hardware store chain that is connected to the hangers with padlocks instead of Quicklinks, its pretty comical.

K Go wrote:

Most ridiculous washer stack I've seen, Exit 38 somewhere I think:

Looks a lot like Lay Of The Land, which I replaced with glue ins two years ago… unless it’s on Far Side somewhere, lmk if you remember where, would love to pull these and I still have a bunch of WARP bolts.

Any chance you have a photo of the long chain you’re supposed to put a draw on that’s hanging over the lip at the crux of Complete Overhaul? 

Bolt hanger upside down and tightened in place. Can't clip it without leveraging carabiner horribly, don't fall. 1/2" bolt so my little crag wrench couldn't fit over it to fix it. Exits somewhere:

There was one just like this on British Isles which I also replaced, but also could be somewhere else, lmk if you remember where.

Great northern slab monstrosity at Index. Idk if it's been cleaned up recently:

Tyler S and I replaced those in September 2023, as well as the 3/4” rusted railroad bolt at the next anchor up. Couldn’t get an attachment large enough to pull that one, tried to drill a smaller hole inside it and tap that, failed, so we  had to hack saw it as close to the wall as possible and patch over it. 

George M wrote:

Looks a lot like Lay Of The Land, which I replaced with glue ins two years ago… unless it’s on Far Side somewhere, lmk if you remember where, would love to pull these and I still have a bunch of WARP bolts.

Any chance you have a photo of the long chain you’re supposed to put a draw on that’s hanging over the lip at the crux of Complete Overhaul? 

There was one just like this on British Isles which I also replaced, but also could be somewhere else, lmk if you remember where.

Tyler S and I replaced those in September 2023, as well as the 3/4” rusted railroad bolt at the next anchor up. Couldn’t get an attachment large enough to pull that one, tried to drill a smaller hole inside it and tap that, failed, so we  had to hack saw it as close to the wall as possible and patch over it. 

Washer stack anchor was top of Endliss Bliss at Gun Show. Don't see notes on MP about it being replaced recently but I haven't been there in a few years. 

Upside down hanger is on Insinuation / BLM-5 at world wall, it was the first bolt I believe. 

Sick, you mean Tyler Stockdale? Love that guy. I haven't been back up GNS with all the rock fall the last couple years, hopefully the new anchors weren't damaged. Thought I heard that the whole rock where the 3rd pitch anchors were is now gone... 

K Go wrote:

Washer stack anchor was top of Endliss Bliss at Gun Show. Don't see notes on MP about it being replaced recently but I haven't been there in a few years. 

Upside down hanger is on Insinuation / BLM-5 at world wall, it was the first bolt I believe. 

Sick, you mean Tyler Stockdale? Love that guy. I haven't been back up GNS with all the rock fall the last couple years, hopefully the new anchors weren't damaged. Thought I heard that the whole rock where the 3rd pitch anchors were is now gone... 

Good to know, I started rebolting at Interstate Park last year with the intention of getting to Gun Show after, but life got in the way. 

We keep talking about rebolting World Wall left-to-right but hard to find a time to do it when it's less than soaking wet, but also you wouldn't piss off half the state.

Yeah, that Tyler! Also haven't been up there since then, but we replaced all GNS anchors as well as the 1/4" bolts on the 11b slab/arete to the right of Pisces. Would be a bummer if some of them went in the rockfall, I'll have to rap in some time and inspect, thanks for the heads up. 

Here's my souvenir from Cayman Brac. Stainless petzl glue in snapped off by hand. It's all been bolted with ti but some relics remain. Also clipped a mechanical bolt and yanked on the quick draw only to have it explode into something like the previous post

Zinc plated carbon white streaks

Heater hose yup throw that on as a dogbone

Zinc plated carbon white streaks

These anchors have both been replaced but the old hardware was left in place. It’s on my todo list to remove it. 

Recently replaced 1/4” protection bolt. “Que cute” as I like to say.

New bolts, but terrible glue job.

Gee Monet wrote:

This is peak stupidity 

Rob Dillon wrote:

I think they just primed it in gray and are gonna come back with the brown.

No reason to be spray painting anything on the wall though.

Rob Dillon wrote:

Here ya go George M:

Oh man, we could not figure out how the hell these are supposed to be used, unless they've been flattened by rockfall!

Rob Dillon wrote:

Is that a busted pulley repurposed as a hanger?

Horizontal SMC with a star drive (Used for a trail chain in Zion NP)homemade hangerExciting, spinning open anchors with single washer stack chain.

creature

Big Red wrote:

Oh man, we could not figure out how the hell these are supposed to be used, unless they've been flattened by rockfall!

I just assumed there used to be some flat webbing through them 

Gee Monet wrote:

New bolts, but terrible glue job.

Ugh, I hate seeing that kind of over-spray for hardware painted after it's installed. Gee, where did you come across all this? Looks like Red Rock area in Las Vegas?

We can absolutely do better. I'll be at Red Rock for 2 weeks over Thanksgiving and I'm happy to try to clean that up if someone doesn't get there first,

I might have replaced this “bad bolt” a number of years back. Not sayin where though. Aluminum hangers are silly!

CTB wrote:

I might have replaced this “bad bolt” a number of years back. Not sayin where though. Aluminum hangers are silly!

That is terrifying. I can’t imagine clipping an aluminum shim and thinking “that’s bomber”.