Post Awesome Trad Videos #3
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This 13c was established by John Duran in 1988 (FFA by Cody Roth in 2011) and is located on this stunning face at roughly 10,000ft in the Sandia Mountains just west of Albuquerque. |
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Send @ ~12:40 |
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Skipping The Bolts at Donner Summit - "Taste the Bronco" 5.13c/d - ON GEAR!! |
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Doctor Drakewrote: Interesting that there's a bolt on the first half of the route but not the second. Seems arbitrarily scary. |
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Malcolm Schusterwrote: 99.9% sure that's a fixed piton. There aren't any bolts on the route |
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saign charlesteinwrote: Ahh. Interesting. Must’ve been placed for a different route? |
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The peg is on Impact Day which Lexicon crosses at this point. Impact Day is a Dave Birkett E8 (about 5.13 R) from the 1990s. Fixed pitons were perhaps more accepted in Lakes at that time. Great to see Ondra on this. |
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saign charlesteinwrote: Sick route. It's so incredibly familiar to me and I'm pretty dang sure we've seen it in one of these threads in a different video...can't find it, maybe someone else can. The route immediately seemed familiar and the nest of X4s sold me on it: the other video/route is also an overhanging finger crack on sandstone with a nest of four cams, but I think that one has two .1s and two .2s This video was recommended immediately after watching the above (and the third video on the channel was also posted somewhat recently, also a good watch): |
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Doctor Drakewrote: At first I thought so too, but when watching it, I thought the other one was different, and harder. I might be wrong though. Super rad line and vid though regardless |
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John Lozanowrote: I’ve never seen someone make something so hard look so easy. |
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Warning: pov gopro footage, if you're not a fan, maybe this should be in the not awesome thread. That said, it's granite and it's Pete, so that's good enough for me to share here |
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This one isn't stoker-glam footage, more like a dry nerdy analysis in 2-D, but his technical descriptions about climbing E9 slate on thin gear take me there (5 min): youtube.com/watch?v=nIjOJiu… |
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^^^ Not slab! |





