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Post Awesome Trad Videos #3

Anna Brown · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 9,272


https://www.mountainproject.com/route/120911656/a-date-with-death 

This 13c was established by John Duran in 1988 (FFA by Cody Roth in 2011) and is located on this stunning face at roughly 10,000ft in the Sandia Mountains just west of Albuquerque.

Doctor Drake · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2018 · Points: 126

Send @ ~12:40



John Tuttle · · Just a dude, playing a dude. · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 235

Skipping The Bolts at Donner Summit - "Taste the Bronco" 5.13c/d - ON GEAR!!



Tim Wheatley · · Nomad · Joined May 2019 · Points: 1,036



Doctor Drake · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2018 · Points: 126



Doctor Drake · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2018 · Points: 126



Malcolm Schuster · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 5
Doctor Drakewrote:



Interesting that there's a bolt on the first half of the route but not the second. Seems arbitrarily scary. 

saign charlestein · · Tacoma WA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 2,377
Malcolm Schusterwrote:

Interesting that there's a bolt on the first half of the route but not the second. Seems arbitrarily scary. 

99.9% sure that's a fixed piton. There aren't any bolts on the route

Malcolm Schuster · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 5
saign charlesteinwrote:

99.9% sure that's a fixed piton. There aren't any bolts on the route

Ahh. Interesting. Must’ve been placed for a different route?

duncan... · · London, UK · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 55

The peg is on Impact Day which  Lexicon crosses at this point. 

Impact Day is a Dave Birkett E8 (about 5.13  R)  from the 1990s. Fixed pitons were perhaps more accepted in Lakes at that time.

Great to see Ondra on this.

saign charlestein · · Tacoma WA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 2,377



Doctor Drake · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2018 · Points: 126
saign charlesteinwrote:



Sick route. It's so incredibly familiar to me and I'm pretty dang sure we've seen it in one of these threads in a different video...can't find it, maybe someone else can. The route immediately seemed familiar and the nest of X4s sold me on it: the other video/route is also an overhanging finger crack on sandstone with a nest of four cams, but I think that one has two .1s and two .2s

This video was recommended immediately after watching the above (and the third video on the channel was also posted somewhat recently, also a good watch):



saign charlestein · · Tacoma WA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 2,377
Doctor Drakewrote:

Sick route. It's so incredibly familiar to me and I'm pretty dang sure we've seen it in one of these threads in a different video...can't find it, maybe someone else can. The route immediately seemed familiar and the nest of X4s sold me on it: the other video/route is also an overhanging finger crack on sandstone with a nest of four cams, but I think that one has two .1s and two .2s

This video was recommended immediately after watching the above (and the third video on the channel was also posted somewhat recently, also a good watch):



At first I thought so too, but when watching it, I thought the other one was different, and harder. I might be wrong though. Super rad line and vid though regardless 

Justin S · · Squamish · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 0



John Lozano · · Oklahoma City, OK · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 532



Esther P · · Mostly CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 217
John Lozanowrote:



I’ve never seen someone make something so hard look so easy.

Doctor Drake · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2018 · Points: 126

Warning: pov gopro footage, if you're not a fan, maybe this should be in the not awesome thread.

That said, it's granite and it's Pete, so that's good enough for me to share here



Derek F · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 401

This one isn't stoker-glam footage, more like a dry nerdy analysis in 2-D, but his technical descriptions about climbing E9 slate on thin gear take me there (5 min): youtube.com/watch?v=nIjOJiu…

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 291



Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

^^^ Not slab!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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