Gates of Lodore Climbing

Searching the interwebs I can only find a hint at some climbing in the Gates of Lodore, but having seen it the other day I know there's got to be somebody that's put up some routes in there! If anyone has any beta on climbing in that canyon, specifically at Steamboat Rock, I'd love to hear it!

Nope. Nobody climbs in Gates. Mainly cause you’d mostly have to come in by water. Walking in from Jones Hole- there’s A TON of stuff that has potential. Maybe something has been climbed. There’s no record of it. Steamboat has been climbed. It hasn’t been climbed a lot, and it’s (probably) an aid climb. Cross Mountain has some routes. There’s a couple other spots on the east side of DNM that have some ”established” routes; none of them have been climbed a lot or often. There’s a number of ok to decent canyoneering descents.

I have a PDF detailing Steamboat being climbed. I can’t post it though

There has been attempts in lodore, and possibly successful ascents. If you want info I can help a bit.

Steamboat Rock has the old obvious Kor route, and I'm pretty sure Art put up a line on the face that faces the campground but I've no details on that one. Access to steamboat Rock is easy, just get a play permit from the park, and then cross at the campground (using a boat or swimming with drybags)

Does anyone have a topo or description for that Kor route? I tried finding it on the internet awhile back but came up dry.

Derert Rock IV (Colorado plateau) has one if I recall. I also think there's one in an odd 'best of' desert book, perhaps Fred knapp. I don't know why the guy above is being secretive with his pdf, perhaps they're working a new line or something.

Basically follows the main obvious system on east face. P1. Bring a selection of pins and nail up and thru roof. P2/3 ish follow crack system to ledge cave 5.10 or C1. P4 nail or freeclimb the roof and continue up main system. The last pitch or two seems to branch slightly left.

Pizem tried to free the route a while back, and supposedly everything but the first pitch goes.

We tried a clean ascent in '08 but failed at that, pins are necessary (although I've since become crafty with beaks, I think you'd still need a hammer)

Also, S Platte pioneer Peter Williams lives in Dinosaur, he's been around there a long time and probably has his ear a bit closer to the ground regarding recent ascents.

Enjoy Weber sandstone, or don't.

Found it, not Fred knapp book but the ol camster has it in his select book. Google has a page preview up: Google 'kor route steamboat rock' then look for the books.google link

Are the original bolts still on the route?