Connecticut Climbing Questions

Hey all,

My family and I are moving to Milford, Connecticut and I have some climbing questions.

1. What Connecticut climbing areas should I check out? I know of Ragged, but little else. Chatfield Hollow looks pretty cool. I mostly climb trad, but am interested in checking out everything. 

2. How far are the Gunks, NH, Addies? I can probably Google map this for actual numbers, but I guess what I'm asking is do you climb more often in state or venture to these other areas?

3. How do you find partners? Do you use MP? Is there a good Facebook group? I lead 5.10 trad and have two kids, a 9 year old daughter and a 12 year old son. I'd be interested in meeting other parents for climbing with kid days, and anyone else for solo ventures.

We're leaving here next week (Idyllwild,CA) and should be in CT by August 1st. 

Thanks!

Sean

Since so far you have no responses from CT folks, I'll provide some thoughts from neighboring MA.

1. I'm sure you are aware that coming from Idyllwild to the CT shore, be prepared for a big change--multiple changes, actually!!! Specifically in terms of climbing, as in the rest of New England, there is plenty of rock around, though most of it--boulders and small outcrops, pretty well-hidden in the ever-present woods ( and many of the obvious outcrops you will see, such as driving along I-91 between New Haven and Hartford , are choss), though only a few seem to see regular use.
The most popular areas are along that 91 corridor, where the predominant rock is volcanic 'traprock', basically a form of basalt. While that rock can be very choosy, where it is good, such as at Ragged, it is excellent ---generally vertical with cracks and intricate, sustained face climbing--all very different than CA granite. While there are quite a few traprock crags with good routes, only a few, in addition to Ragged, are popular---East Peak, Pinnacle, Cathole/Washington's Head. 

One thing to be aware of, CT grades tend to be quite 'stiff', so between that and a different style of climbing than you may be used to, I'd suggest starting with routes a few grades below your maximum until you 'acclimatize' to the local conditions. Top roping is also very popular in the region, much more so than leading ( most cliffs are short), though anchors can be difficult to set-up.

Closer to Milford, on the edge of New Haven, both West Rock and Sleeping Giant--more 'pure' basalt than the areas further north, have quite a few routes, but definitely more doubtful rock quality ( and loads of poison ivy in summer!!!). Both areas get good winter sun and are more popular during that season--on the relatively rare occasions when the sun is out!!! Chatfield, and some other areas, are further east near the coast, and are gneiss. Chatfield itself is very accessible and usually has it's own small crew of 'regulars', the other nearby crags are less frequented but worth checking out.

2. The Gunks is about 1.5 hours from Milford ( educated-guess and very dependent on traffic). Depending where in the Adirondacks you are heading, it is about 1.5-3 hours further than the Gunks. The principal White Mountain ( New Hampshire) areas, again depending on where you are going, are roughly 4-5 hours drive ( with Rumney being about an hour closer than the North Conway area). The recently developed Hanging Mt., just over the border in SW MA, just above Route 8, is about an hour's drive.

3. As far as finding partners, while there are various on-line options and some local organized groups come and go, I think that these days the climbing gyms are the best way to meet folks--and you can actually get to climb with them a bit and get a sense of their abilities and personalities. I'm not sure if there is currently an active gym in New Haven ( they come and go there), but otherwise I think that the closest gyms for you are Climb Fairfield in ( no surprise) Fairfield and Rock Spot ( formerly Prime Climb ) in Wallingford. The Central Rock Gym In Glastonbury is an excellent gym ( one of my favorites ) though probably a bit far from Milford for regular attendance.

Thanks for the thoughts, Alan. I'll add Hanging Mountain to my places to check out as well.

Join the CT AMC Climbing/Mountaineering ( facebook.com/groups/5977815…) and CT Rock Climbers ( facebook.com/groups/1483246…) Facebook groups - folks new to the area looking for partners post on a regular basis.

Plenty of CT climbers go to the Gunks, 1.5-2 hour drive depending on traffic. I live between New Haven and Hartford - I can usually get to Keene Valley, NY in just under 4 hours and North Conway, NH in just over 4 hours. Probably because of a traditional AMC bias, it seems that CT climbers prefer to head to the White Mountains in NH as opposed to the ADKs in NY for out-of-state rock/ice climbing trips.

The above comments are spot on. I live in the area, you can get to the gunks in a bit over 2 hours usually. I recommend arriving before 8 on the weekends unless you want to climb hard or walk far.

New Haven has 3 gyms now and besides Fairfield are your other options. Ascent is probably the easiest to get to from Milford but is bouldering only. It’s a different crowd from Fairfield. Ultimately it’s usually best to pick the gym closest to your work because traffic is brutal around Milford on the highways.

I’d recommend getting a long static line for anchors too if you don’t already have one.

I’m an hour from you in Bethlehem, CT. I mostly climb Gunks, but have been hearing good things about Ragged and plan to check it out more this fall.

Thanks for all the replies! I cut my teeth at the Gunks forever ago. It was crowded then, so I can only imagine what it's like these days. I've also done a fair amount in the Whites and NH. Definitely have some unfinished business in both .Been to Ragged once years ago. Our dear friend Eric (not tall) nearly got his head taken off by a disc-shaped rock that came down when we pulled our rope from a climb. Terrifying. 

Get in with the sailing community for the summers, the LI sound is the place to be for the hot months!