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Restoring downturn (or, lack of upturn) to climbing shoes?

Original Post
MattH · · CO mostly · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,446

I've got a few pairs of flat lasted climbing shoes (Tenaya Ra, 5.10 Quantum Blue, TC Pro Gen1) that have developed an upturned profile through their life and tend to skate off climbing holds in situations a newer shoe would not.

I've contemplated putting them in the oven on 175, heating them up for a bit, and then bending them in reverse with a pair of bricks/textbooks/whatever (IE baking in a downturn) but IDK if that'll just further weaken the midsole material.

Anyone had success with any silly tricks to restore life to old banana-shaped climbing shoes?

B G · · New England · Joined May 2018 · Points: 41

How is the toe rubber on the shoes, and is it possible that they just need a resole?

I say try out your idea! I think it's likely you'll weaken the glue and ruin the shoes before you achieve your goal. But, a lot of advances in this sport would never happen if people didn't try new ideas!

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

Unlikely to work I'm afraid, the glue will degrade if you try and heat it up. You'd need to raise the temperature of the midsole to its glass transition temperature to reshape it effectively. You could try heating it to about 70c to reach the glass transition temperature of nylon which is what la sportiva use but this will be dramatically different between the brands. If I recall correctly 5.10 use ABS for their mid soles which has a Tg of over 100c. 

On second thought, if you soaked a la sportiva shoe you may be able to lower the Tg of the nylon so it wouldn't as readily degrade the glue. Though at the same time, the glue may undergo hydrolysis if heated to high temps and still break down. And this method wouldn't work for an ABS midsole. 

It may also all be down to something entirely different, it may be the rubber has undergone creep at which point you'd need to redo the tensioning elements of the rand.

Or it might be both, we simply have no idea. 

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,762

Just spitballin' here, but filling the shoe ( I'm thinking of the TCPs) with boiling water briefly might soften the P3 midsole before the glue totally lets go.  Or it could wreck the shoe totally.

Hard Send · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2022 · Points: 0

Are you in the boulder area? Bring your shoes over l will take a look at at them.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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