10 Thoughts on the Dire State of the Climbing Harness Market in 2025

So your complaint boils down, really, to that fact that you think Arcteryx is too pricey?

jordand wrote:

Some info about new BD harnesses: https://youtu.be/oRfu5997lg8?t=396....

Sounds like there will be a new Solution Guide later this year as well.

Thanks for this! I’ve been seeing the new harnesses on BD athletes in various Instagram posts and videos, but this is the first actual product video I’ve seen. I saw the catalogue product page for the new Solution Guide earlier this year, it is supposed to come out this fall I believe. It is basically a redesigned Technician, which I believe is being phased out. Adjustable legs, large gear loops, rear 5th loop, really nice sewn ice clipper loops (4 of them). Same geometry as the Solution, so should fix the minor comfort issues of the current Technician. Almost a clone of the Arc’teryx AR 395.

These new Solution and Zone harnesses look dope, especially the new Solution Harness. Wide, comfortable waist and legs, big gear loops. Rear 5th loop sewn into the middle of the band so stuff you hang on it doesn’t dangle too low. Literally everything I’ve ever asked for in a rock climbing harness. I’ll keep using my current Zone and Solution and eagerly await the release of these harnesses.

with the redesigned Solution Guide coming out, the uber lightweight and sophisticated air net recco, and the redesign of the zone and Solution, I think these BD harnesses will be the best harnesses on the market period.

jordand wrote:

Some info about new BD harnesses: https://youtu.be/oRfu5997lg8?t=396....

Sounds like there will be a new Solution Guide later this year as well.

You beat me to linking this! Shoutout to UKC for seemingly being the only media outlet who bothers bringing a camera to these trade shows and talking about upcoming gear. 

I haven't seen anybody recommend Ocun harnesses yet. I have the neon lady 3 which doesn't fit all of OPs requirements but I can confirm it is comfortable for full multi-pitch days, has large gear loops compared to competitors, and is reasonably priced (I tried multiple petzl harnesses, the Edelrid Jayne, and a wild country harness when I needed to size down and they had tiny gear loops and/or the harness was uncomfortable for hanging). Ocun also makes versions with 5 gear loops, fixed leg loops etc. as well as options geared towards different types of climbing. A quick glance at their website shows most of their harnesses are around 10-14oz and one will run you around $100 max which is reasonable in my opinion. 

It doesn't meet the OP's desire for non-adjustable leg loops, but I'd give another plug for the Edelrid Sendero II (MP review thread) as it seems to meet all of the rest of the criteria. I really love the sliding belt that allows the gear loops and belay loop to stay properly centered no matter where your waist lands in the size range. This should really be a more common feature and is a great alternative to centering via double buckles.

I use the Cadillac F which also has fixed legs as you were desiring

Adam Franco wrote:

It doesn't meet the OP's desire for non-adjustable leg loops, but I'd give another plug for the Edelrid Sendero II (MP review thread) as it seems to meet all of the rest of the criteria. I really love the sliding belt that allows the gear loops and belay loop to stay properly centered no matter where your waist lands in the size range. This should really be a more common feature and is a great alternative to centering via double buckles.

I bought it on recommendation from that thread  (non adj. leg loop version Sirana) - such a great harness- way more comfy with a double rack than my old arcteryx R300, perfect fit, and nice adjustable webbing feature.