Anyone into Sewing?

The alice Palace wrote:

Don't give me excuses not to commit to my master plan!! But also how would you do that neatly with the cuffs? 

Maybe something like this: https://makeit-loveit.com/making-pants-longer-lengthen-trousers

Rip out the seam that holds the elastic in place and you will have an extra inch or two of the pant fabric that you can use (that was once folded in). Move the elastic down the leg and re-attach close to the end of the leg and either leave the elastic exposed on the inside or encase it in a different fabric.

The alice Palace wrote:

Don't give me excuses not to commit to my master plan!! But also how would you do that neatly with the cuffs? 

Here’s what you do that is really simple:

cut the elastic section off about 2” up. Make a sleeve the exact same size at the top cut part (its gonna be tapered, you want it to be too big on the bottom and not too small on the top). Join and top stitch the elastic section back on the bottom, and sew the assembly back on the legs.

Looks uniform, maybe even stock. 

The alice Palace wrote:

Don't give me excuses not to commit to my master plan!! But also how would you do that neatly with the cuffs? 

Oh I didn't say anything about neatly!  I'm just a punter hanging out in the wings of this awesome thread so I can gawk at the mad skills on display here so frequently. My own gear and clothing modification is purely functional and usually horrendous looking.  But fortunately several others have replied here with practical advice on this... ;)

anybody have tips for sewing grosgrain/binding around curves? not sure if worth looking for a binding attachment but was sewing vest straps and couldn't get a good result around the bottom curves. also anybody happen to have some retired slings i could snag for webbing loops? example of style straps

https://learnmyog.com/images/trailRunBackpack/thumbs/wing.jpg

Zach Willford wrote:

anybody have tips for sewing grosgrain/binding around curves? not sure if worth looking for a binding attachment but was sewing vest straps and couldn't get a good result around the bottom curves. also anybody happen to have some retired slings i could snag for webbing loops? example of style straps

https://learnmyog.com/images/trailRunBackpack/thumbs/wing.jpg

Hi Zach,

It depends on what kind of binding material you’re using. Nylon grosgrain is notoriously difficult to curve because it doesn’t stretch much if at all. A thin nylon webbing is much easier to get a curve with. Having a binding foot helps but keep in mind that they usually only allow thin assemblies to pass through (i.e. a few layers of fabric total), and are fixed for each width of binding tape (3/4”, 1”, etc.). 

Scott Gifford wrote:

Hi Zach,

It depends on what kind of binding material you’re using. Nylon grosgrain is notoriously difficult to curve because it doesn’t stretch much if at all. A thin nylon webbing is much easier to get a curve with. Having a binding foot helps but keep in mind that they usually only allow thin assemblies to pass through (i.e. a few layers of fabric total), and are fixed for each width of binding tape (3/4”, 1”, etc.). 

Yeah it's grosgrain I've been having trouble with. Didn't know that webbing sews better, thanks for that tip. Might have enough stretch binding to get the bottoms with. For binding feet do they just get more consistent feeding on straighter parts? Or do they help with slight curves also? Haven't used one so not sure how they work exactly.

Zach Willford wrote:

If you get a binder you have to match it to the materials and style of binding. I use  this for zigzag but it work on straight stitches too

Zach Willford wrote:

anybody have tips for sewing grosgrain/binding around curves? not sure if worth looking for a binding attachment but was sewing vest straps and couldn't get a good result around the bottom curves. also anybody happen to have some retired slings i could snag for webbing loops? example of style straps

https://learnmyog.com/images/trailRunBackpack/thumbs/wing.jpg

I’m going to save you a lot of time and frustration.

what you want is “soft finish” poly binding tape, and a “right angle raw edge binder” and the foot that goes with it. You could use magic clips to get it right for a one off, but once you go right angle and offset foot you won’t go back.

It takes some adjustment, but after figuring it out on a walking foot machine you’ll be making some bangin’ straps.

Or, you could go with herringbone if no industrial machine, or the inside out method. Inside out isn’t bad. 

Some new designs from Will Sew For Bolts.  Tote Bag, BurlyBag, and Wristlets.  All have some interesting challenges due to the thickness of sheath - standard techniques don't always work.  Tote bag is sewn flat - no overlapping seams except the handle connection.  Sewing the corners is tricky - I now make it in two halves and then connect the halves in the middle of the bottom/side panel. BurlyBag is designed so it can all be sewn flat.  But, that means sewing through two thicknesses of sheath to make the corner webs and having exposed edges at the corner.  The webs make the bag stiff so it stands up and stays open.  The wristlet pouches are also sewn flat.  I install the zipper in one strand and then attach that to the rest of the tube.

BurlyBag turns out to be perfect for a case of wine.  See all the other sewn goods at Will Sew For Bolts on FB and IG.

Help us turn old ropes into new bolts. YOU donate directly to @asca_bolt_replacement. ASCA provides bolts and anchor hardware to your local crag stewards. Will Sew For Bolts sends you cool sewn goodies. WSFB donates all materials, labor, and USPS shipping so 100% of your donation goes to ASCA. PM for donation details.     safeclimbing.org/donate

High Mountain Gear wrote:

I’m going to save you a lot of time and frustration.

what you want is “soft finish” poly binding tape, and a “right angle raw edge binder” and the foot that goes with it. You could use magic clips to get it right for a one off, but once you go right angle and offset foot you won’t go back.

It takes some adjustment, but after figuring it out on a walking foot machine you’ll be making some bangin’ straps.

Or, you could go with herringbone if no industrial machine, or the inside out method. Inside out isn’t bad. 

HMG- that's the material I meant to reference, not the nylon webbing. Thanks!

-Scott

back from a minor sewing winter with a new chalkbag for myself. One critique of liner bags is that a layer of chalk often builds between the inner and the outer, so I’m exploring just a super minimal bag. I have a few ideas around closing it, but for now I just use the belt itself. If that gets annoying, I’ll try something else.

Challenge 800 ultra for the back (seems excessive, but provides stability), some very thin dyneema for the front and a small bead around the lip for stability.

Belt of 2mm dyneema (? Maybe it’s called zing it?) which I’ve been using for a few years and enjoy. 

@Matt, funny because I made pretty much exactly the same ultralight chalkbag for the exact same reason a couple of weeks ago (my regular chalkbag feels like a brick with how much chalk and dirt must be between the outside the liner). This is based on DWS chalkbags I've seen: no liner, no closure, burly stiff material, 2mm dyneema belt that I would feel ok bailing off of if needed. I seam-sealed the bottom to prevent excess chalk leakage.

I've used it on a few routes and love it.

Big Red wrote:

@Matt, funny because I made pretty much exactly the same ultralight chalkbag for the exact same reason a couple of weeks ago (my regular chalkbag feels like a brick with how much chalk and dirt must be between the outside the liner). This is based on DWS chalkbags I've seen: no liner, no closure, burly stiff material, 2mm dyneema belt that I would feel ok bailing off of if needed. I seam-sealed the bottom to prevent excess chalk leakage.

Seems like Mammut is working on something similar to y'alls designs now. Link

It does have a closure and isn't PPE, but seems to meet your other requirements though. 

Could be pretty nice!

Big Red wrote:

@Matt, funny because I made pretty much exactly the same ultralight chalkbag for the exact same reason a couple of weeks ago (my regular chalkbag feels like a brick with how much chalk and dirt must be between the outside the liner). This is based on DWS chalkbags I've seen: no liner, no closure, burly stiff material, 2mm dyneema belt that I would feel ok bailing off of if needed. I seam-sealed the bottom to prevent excess chalk leakage.

I've used it on a few routes and love it.

Love it! yeah i have been enjoying it as well! MYOG is awesome. 

Big Red wrote:

@Matt, funny because I made pretty much exactly the same ultralight chalkbag for the exact same reason a couple of weeks ago (my regular chalkbag feels like a brick with how much chalk and dirt must be between the outside the liner). This is based on DWS chalkbags I've seen: no liner, no closure, burly stiff material, 2mm dyneema belt that I would feel ok bailing off of if needed. I seam-sealed the bottom to prevent excess chalk leakage.

I've used it on a few routes and love it.

looks awesome. what's the weight vs a normal bag? and do you mind elaborating on the bailing with 2mm cord? seems so tiny haha

Zach Willford wrote:

looks awesome. what's the weight vs a normal bag? and do you mind elaborating on the bailing with 2mm cord? seems so tiny haha

It's 28g vs my regular bag which is 140g. The 2mm dyneema (pretty cheap here) breaks at around 900lb, so doubled up I think it's safe enough to gingerly rap off of if needed, or to use as part of a rap anchor. I wouldn't be psyched on the idea, but in a pinch it would be useful.

Big Red wrote:

@Matt, funny because I made pretty much exactly the same ultralight chalkbag for the exact same reason a couple of weeks ago (my regular chalkbag feels like a brick with how much chalk and dirt must be between the outside the liner). This is based on DWS chalkbags I've seen: no liner, no closure, burly stiff material, 2mm dyneema belt that I would feel ok bailing off of if needed. I seam-sealed the bottom to prevent excess chalk leakage.

I've used it on a few routes and love it.

What material is it? What are you using for the waist belt adjustment? 

I've got some old materials kicking around and am inspired by these chalk bags. 

I've got 1oz dcf (which is probably way too thin) and some vx21 xpac, which is pretty stiff... But I don't think I can seam seal easily to keep chalk in? 

Timothy Prime wrote:

What material is it? What are you using for the waist belt adjustment? 

I've got 1oz dcf (which is probably way too thin) and some vx21 xpac, which is pretty stiff... But I don't think I can seam seal easily to keep chalk in? 

It's some extra HypderD 300 I had around, and the adjustment is a Lineloc from RBTR. I don't see why the seam seal wouldn't work for the xpac, but its stifness might make it annoying to work with on a small bag.

Forgive me if this has been covered, but search did not help. 

The chalk bag I made out of some hiking pants material has a problem. It is very sensitive to creating clouds of chalk when jostled even slightly. I'm guessing it may be because the material is too air tight? Does anyone have an understanding as to how to reduce the chalk clouds?

Big Red wrote:

It's some extra HypderD 300 I had around, and the adjustment is a Lineloc from RBTR. I don't see why the seam seal wouldn't work for the xpac, but its stifness might make it annoying to work with on a small bag.

Double seam allowance, makes it a lot easier to work with and line up.