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New Mexico - Crack Climbing

Original Post
Andreas Weier · · Alpnach, CH · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1

Hi, I am visiting New Mexico with my family for around 1.5 Month starting end of March and looking for some single pitch and/or crack boulders.

 I am looking for stuff the can be accessed with a low clearance car,  5.10-5.12+ would be a good grade range. And places with lovely nature is very welcome (not looking for some dirty place even if the climbing would be excellent)

I came accross Capulin Canyon, Diablo Canyon, and the white White Rock area. 
Any other suggestions or recommendations?

slo ta · · ABQ · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 257

That's pretty much it. There's a few worthwhile cracks in the Sandias, but the approaches are not really 'family friendly' and it definitely isn't standard cragging. There's also volcanic rock similar to White Rock/Diablo up by Taos, which will have similar cracks. I'm not familiar with most Taos crags, so can't make a specific recommendation. I'd also double check the access road situation for Capulin, since the road is closed in Winter. This is a pretty low snow year for the state though, so they might end up opening the gate earlier than normal.

Most all of these crags are reasonably scenic with hiking opportunities if not everyone is climbing. White Rock in particular has very nice views, in my opinion.

Ivan Cross · · Flagstaff · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 198

The Playground at White Rock 

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

Tres Piedras has a ton of good stuff, I am almost strictly a trad climber and have good times up there in that grade range.  Easy forest road in.  Free USFS camping.  This is the time of year for it.

Owen S · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 3,375

Capulin cannot be accessed with a low clearance vehicle. Even with good clearance it can be challenging in spots. It will also be blazing hot from pretty much the moment they open the gate until about late November, unless you find a rare overcast day. The approach hike is not family friendly either.

I second Tres Piedras. Slabby, techy single pitch trad.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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