New TRS device

Yep, I ordered one too. I'll directly compare it to my Tax LOV 3 when it shows up.

On the purchased train.
You guys wanna go climbing together, but without each other?

evan freeman wrote:

Yep, I ordered one too. I'll directly compare it to my Tax LOV 3 when it shows up.

Any feedback?

They're not planning to ship till Jan time

I've also pre-oreded one I messaged them on insta to see what loads they have found it slips at and breaks, it was very good news for LRS.

"Hi Sebastian, thanks for the question. Sorry I didn't answer you right away. In reality the SULU works with a large range of rope diameters, from 5.5mm to 11.5mm and for this reason there is no exact load from which the rope starts to slide inside it and a precise breaking load or deformation. Another variable that has a big impact is also the speed with which the load is applied. I can tell you that on average the rope starts to slide at about 4KN, but if I have ropes with a diameter of about 10mm and I load them with a tear, they generally start to slide after 6KN. All the tests we did at breakage actually produced the breakage of the dynamic ropes at about 10-12KN and never at the exit of the SULU but just below the attachment knot (a lot depends on the type of knot that is applied). With more resistant ropes the SULU starts to deform after 11-12KN without losing its grip on the rope. In the coming weeks we will also publish specific videos. Thanks again mt"

4kn slip is about 1.7kn lower than a grigri so should be great for lowering impact forces on gear, 12kn deformation is 2kn higher than the grigri broke in a test by Hownot2.

that guy named seb wrote:

I've also pre-oreded one I messaged them on insta to see what loads they have found it slips at and breaks, it was very good news for LRS.

"Hi Sebastian, thanks for the question. Sorry I didn't answer you right away. In reality the SULU works with a large range of rope diameters, from 5.5mm to 11.5mm and for this reason there is no exact load from which the rope starts to slide inside it and a precise breaking load or deformation. Another variable that has a big impact is also the speed with which the load is applied. I can tell you that on average the rope starts to slide at about 4KN, but if I have ropes with a diameter of about 10mm and I load them with a tear, they generally start to slide after 6KN. All the tests we did at breakage actually produced the breakage of the dynamic ropes at about 10-12KN and never at the exit of the SULU but just below the attachment knot (a lot depends on the type of knot that is applied). With more resistant ropes the SULU starts to deform after 11-12KN without losing its grip on the rope. In the coming weeks we will also publish specific videos. Thanks again mt"

4kn slip is about 1.7kn lower than a grigri so should be great for lowering impact forces on gear, 12kn deformation is 2kn higher than the grigri broke in a test by Hownot2.

I’m very optimistic about this device.

I do hope they improve the form factor going forward, as it looks kind of jank, aesthetically. Anyway, I’ve preordered. Will probably replace my vergo

Noel Z wrote:

It seems to belong to the family of devices where you shouldn't fall onto it, panic grab it or use below another device though. For these reasons, I'd use a backup under this, e.g. Micro Traxion. 

Playing around with my Taz Lov3 (which looks really similar to this device in it's basic action) I found the opposite to be true. I was able to keep it from locking up with interference from a secondary device BELOW the Lov, but interference from a device above the Lov doesn't do anything (if anything an open device above helps the Lov lock up since it tends to push down on the topside of the Lov - and the topside needs to pivot down for the Lov to lock up). A device below the Lov can keep the bottom side from pivoting upwards and hold it open (lock open a micro that is tight beneath a Lov and you'll have a setup that won't lock up at all). 

For these reasons I actually always run my Lov below my micro and would expect to do the same here. It takes some tinkering with lengths and bungees, but you can still have it so that you can easily transfer tension from the primary micro to the Lov in a free hanging situation just by yarding up on the free end of the rope. 

that guy named seb wrote:

4kn slip is about 1.7kn lower than a grigri so should be great for lowering impact forces on gear, 12kn deformation is 2kn higher than the grigri broke in a test by Hownot2.

Good beta. Definitely not a fan of the current look, but will hopefully clean up nicely. Excited about the potential for Lead solo and down climbing with the same device.

Greg Sidberry wrote:

Good beta. Definitely not a fan of the current look, but will hopefully clean up nicely. Excited about the potential for Lead solo and down climbing with the same device.

I honestly don't think you'll see the form factor change, they may shave off a bit of weight in future iterations but quite frankly that could be a long way off. The current design allows for connecting it to a chest harness or lanyard and could probably be run inverted similarly to a grigri, this would have the benefit of the handle now pulling towards you instead of away from you. 

Basically, you should preorder it, price wise it's really not that bad considering it's capabilities and by the numbers it's better than anything else out there in every aspect as side from size and weight. 

that guy named seb wrote:

I honestly don't think you'll see the form factor change, they may shave off a bit of weight in future iterations but quite frankly that could be a long way off. The current design allows for connecting it to a chest harness or lanyard and could probably be run inverted similarly to a grigri, this would have the benefit of the handle now pulling towards you instead of away from you. 

Basically, you should preorder it, price wise it's really not that bad considering it's capabilities and by the numbers it's better than anything else out there in every aspect as side from size and weight. 

While I don’t love the look, my main concern is perception by partners who may look at it and think “that looks sketchy”. I’m just imagining all the future conversation I’ll have to have explaining it’s a good device 

Jared AE wrote:

While I don’t love the look, my main concern is perception by partners who may look at it and think “that looks sketchy”. I’m just imagining all the future conversation I’ll have to have explaining it’s a good device 

What partners? It is a TRS device. S stands for ..

The Flying Dutchman wrote:

What partners? It is a TRS device. S stands for ..

It’sa belay device that can be used for TRS 

that guy named seb wrote:

I honestly don't think you'll see the form factor change, they may shave off a bit of weight in future iterations but quite frankly that could be a long way off. The current design allows for connecting it to a chest harness or lanyard and could probably be run inverted similarly to a grigri, this would have the benefit of the handle now pulling towards you instead of away from you. 

I wrote the  ompnay and asked if they had plans to have a lighter and more trangular shaped one like the early prototypes. They responded thar there were several more related midels rekated to rope work and rescue coming next but wouldn't rule out the possibility of a a lighter somewhat smaller version in the future for rock climbers ( the prototype was about 100gm lighter). Sooo...don't  hold your breath but it sounded like there is at least the possibility.  Maybe if enough people expressed interest.

And yes, I totally agree that the thing isn't very aesthetic - in fact downright ugly. But the price is right for all its claimed it can do.

Recent video released by AC showing what is approximately a 9.5mm rope hit peaks of 10kn in a slow pull test. This certainly makes me less excited for it's potential as the ultimate LRS device, though these numbers may change with a different impulse so hopefully these numbers haven't changed dramatically from what they previously told me. 

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

https://www.instagram.com/p/DDuEXbqxy71/ 

If you've achieved 10kN at your harness during a lead fall you have bigger problems than a little rope slip through the device.  Like, your pelvis is broken, your back is broken, you're paralyzed, etc.

Tests with long, hard lead falls show that even 5kN is really difficult to achieve (and hurts).  Most lead falls, even with a hard-catch LRS device and no shock absorber at the anchor, will be under 4kN.

evan freeman wrote:

If you've achieved 10kN at your harness during a lead fall you have bigger problems than a little rope slip through the device.  Like, your pelvis is broken, your back is broken, you're paralyzed, etc.

Tests with long, hard lead falls show that even 5kN is really difficult to achieve (and hurts).  Most lead falls, even with a hard-catch LRS device and no shock absorber at the anchor, will be under 4kN.

The reason why seeing the device hit 10kn is concerning isn't because I'd ever expect to see 10kn, its because in past testing with a device such as a grigri the force at which it slips is essentially it's upper limit, and acts as a force limiter, this is good for rope soloing and very good for aid rope soloing where having some extra energy dissipation is particularly beneficial. 

 The grigri slips at 5.7k and wouldn't go any higher without being blocked, if the sulu is reaching 10kn with no blocker then I'd expect practically no slip from the device, resulting in a very hard catch and I expect, higher forces on the gear. It's not insurmountable, it's just a bit of a shame and means it will likely give the same hard catch that we get from the grigri. 

Noel Z wrote:

For me, Taz Lov as primary above an MT as backup. Otherwise how can you rappel at any given time? The MT stays in place, just thumb the MT's cam open while rappeling.  If the MT trails at the correct distance, then it doesn't interfere with Taz Lov. Same will probably apply to the Sulu.

Also in the case where the taz doesn't engage and hits the backup device, it does so very gently. The Taz will actually start to engage before it fully contacts the backup ascender. There is no danger to having the backup below the Taz. 

Any word on the release date?

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

No updates via email and order still showing "Processing" on account view for order #1749 (though no clue if that means the 1749th order of the Sulu Go or if it's just their invoicing number) 

Instagram from Jan 21st indicates that they intended to be shipping 500 units a week ago

https://www.instagram.com/p/DFFe2P3R7B6/ 

I contacted them last week, they told me my order would ship this week