Help! Another "Alternative to TC Pro" ask for messed up feet

I have hallux limitus/rigidus which involves arthritic enlargement, inflammation, restricted movement and pain in the big toe joint where it joins the foot. I have used original TC pros pretty much since they were released. They fit my foot shape well.

Now the few pairs I have left are reaching the end of their lives. I tried the newer style TC pro in the store and the added chartreuse lace protector is right over the joint and exerts extra pressure right where I can not tolerate it. No good.

The big toe joint does not tolerate downturned shoes at all.

The other problem is the ends of my big toes are not pointy, they are blunt and high compared to so many shoes with toes that have a thin taper in terms of toe height. This is a weird one, High toe boxes feel like junk, but I need some extra height right at the tip of the toe.

My feet are not large volume. they are medium width forefoot, narrow heel, with slightly Greek toe profile, not full on morton's.

I have tried SO many other shoes, and not had success, including Boostics (I think these would be great if they had less downturn), Katana lace (Toe was too thin, way too much downturn), Scarpa Vapor lace and Vapor V, which put way too much upward pressure into the ball of the foot.

Some came somewhat close, 

-Black diamond Aspect pro. 

-Women's Miura lace (narrower fore foot than men's), but they were more asymmetrical than needed, 

-Blue 5.10 Quantums (also too assym)

-5.10 Verdons, but they were just weirdly shaped and the sole detail was too funky. The Verdon' stiffness was helpful for the hallux problem. I found them good for edging and not much more.

So, looking for TC Pro shaped shoe, but perhaps stiffer, medium width, medium/narrow heel, lower amount of asymmetry, room at the tips of the toes, but not an entry level crap shoe.

I have my eye on the Unparallel Up-lift, and curious about Up-lace, but have no idea where I can try them on. 

All ears for anything else!

Evolv Yosemite Bums?

My right big toe is arthritic but probably not to the extent of yours. Scarpa Force have worked as all day multi pitch shoes for me. Decathlon sells Simond shoes. I am a big fan of their mid range shoe. I wear it non stop for hour and a half bouldering sessions up to V4. They are quite inexpensive and it might be worthwhile ordering a pair just on spec. I wear both these shoes at street shoe size. Any “performance “ fit or features just produce enough pain to take the fun out of climbing. 

When you resole, try asking them to reinforce the foot plate to increase rigidity a little? It won't help the pressure from above, but it really helps stabilize the toe.  

Mike Grainger wrote:

My right big toe is arthritic but probably not to the extent of yours. Scarpa Force have worked as all day multi pitch shoes for me. Decathlon sells Simond shoes. I am a big fan of their mid range shoe. I wear it non stop for hour and a half bouldering sessions up to V4. They are quite inexpensive and it might be worthwhile ordering a pair just on spec. I wear both these shoes at street shoe size. Any “performance “ fit or features just produce enough pain to take the fun out of climbing. 

Thanks, I've been to Decathlon stores in Europe, but I think getting Simond in the US is obscure, and really want to try on before buying or have easy free returns. I'll look at Scarpa Force, but descriptions say a little wider in the fore foot. Will see.

tenesmus wrote:

When you resole, try asking them to reinforce the foot plate to increase rigidity a little? It won't help the pressure from above, but it really helps stabilize the toe.  

Thanks, I did this once with TC pros. The result was bizarre. Uneven flex and just difficult to climb in. Perhaps a better cobbler might have done it better. Boostic was really good for a stiff shoe except for the pain from the downturn

rock climbing wrote:

Remove the yellow pice and punch holes through the leather and rubber. It takes 2 mins to do 

I'll have a look next time I am in a store about this. Is it not stitched into the seam? This is the common thing for my big toe problem with running shoes as well, The seams for the laces create constriction/pressure right on the joint. 

Got to try Up lace today, no good. Baggy toe box, poor torsional support. Very demanding on the strength of the big toe.

Unparallel Rise Pro perform much like a TC pro, but maybe stiffer. I’m a big fan.

Have you tried Scarpa Generators? They’re a bit wider, less asymmetrical, stiffer, and the toe box is a bit more blunt and higher volume than the TCs but it’s not really much taller.

Ben E wrote:

Have you tried Scarpa Generators? They’re a bit wider, less asymmetrical, stiffer, and the toe box is a bit more blunt and higher volume than the TCs but it’s not really much taller.

Another vote for the Generators. My feet are a bit wider and in most shoes my toes start to hurt after a few climbs. The Generators are comfy yet stiff and perfect for slabs, face climbing and cracks (hands and wider)...

In the past your best option would be an old board lasted shoe like the boreal ballet, though sadly these are no longer in production. You won't find much in the way of stiffer shoes from main stream brands, generators are noticeably softer than TC's. Instead I'd look at either the uprise pro or if you're willing to import, the Tulson Tolf california is incredibly stiff, lacking asymetry, and very burly.

 These two shoes share the same DNA in that they are both pretty much made for offwidths, being super stiff and supportive, ideal for hanging off your feet. The downside here is you'll essentially have to learn to climb in them again because they're so stiff and lacking sensitivity. This isn't insurmountable though. 

that guy named seb wrote:

Tulson Tolf california is incredibly stiff, lacking asymetry, and very burly.

I do like Old trad style shoes, those look great except chisel toe tight. The Utah looks better in that regard, but not taking a leap of faith without trying on first. Tolf website has no buy links anyway.

T H wrote:

Another vote for the Generators. My feet are a bit wider and in most shoes my toes start to hurt after a few climbs. The Generators are comfy yet stiff and perfect for slabs, face climbing and cracks (hands and wider)...

This is my issue as well.  The only shoe that doesn't hurt my feet is the Skwama, but that's not ideal for crack climbing.  Any idea what size I should try for the Scarpa Generators if I am 41 in Skwama/Sportiva?

Bryan M wrote:

This is my issue as well.  The only shoe that doesn't hurt my feet is the Skwama, but that's not ideal for crack climbing.  Any idea what size I should try for the Scarpa Generators if I am 41 in Skwama/Sportiva?

Hmm, that´s a tough one. I don´t know about the Skwamas, but i wear a 42/42,5 in streetshoes and wear the Generators in a 41,5. They are very comfy but snug enough for most things, but i´m sure i could size down to a 41, or even 40,5. Probably no longer fun to climb cracks then...