Original Scarpa Boostic Re-Issue in Europe 2024/2025

How about new boostic size for an original TC Pro 42.5 wearer?

mountainhick wrote:

How about new boostic size for an original TC Pro 42.5 wearer?

I've been trying to figure out the same. Anyone have insight on this?

H Lue wrote:

I've been trying to figure out the same. Anyone have insight on this?

I would think about 1.5 - 2 sizes larger. 

Well worn in Katana velcro in 41 feel about the same size as well worn in OG Boostic in 42.5.

But you could also go as extra 0.5 up.

On the tight performance fit side for me 41.5 Boostic is very tight and similar to Sportiva sizing of 40.

I have OG Boostics in 41.5, 42, 42.5 and 43

Alright, I wanted to add an update after climbing in the Boostic R in Yosemite this past weekend. The pair I wore over the weekend are size 41.5 (my Boostic sizes: 40.5 & 41 performance fit; 42 comfy w/socks). On Saturday we climbed the first 7 pitches of a route with a lot of crack climbing from fingers up to fists (Scarface), and on Sunday a 4 pitch face climb (The Great Escape). 

As I mentioned in my previous post in this thread, my feeling was that the softer materials in the upper of the Boostic R made them feel less supportive, and that this would be noticeable when sizing up for long routes/crack climbing. Having climbed in them more now, I think I overestimated this; the shoes performed great and were super comfortable all weekend. They didn't feel overly soft, and they maintained their supportive feeling throughout the climbing day. Saturday was quite toasty on route (which was lame), but the shoes held up to the heat well without breaking down or softening up excessively.

For me, the 41.5 Boostic R performed on a par with tight TC Pros (39 for me). For me, they are better at rocking up onto edges from below, I can feel a bit more beneath my big toe, and they are so easy to pop on/off and adjust with the velcro. They are not as comfortable in hands and fists cracks as a TC, but this can be overcome easily with a little more intention when setting foot jams. 

Basically, they climb like a Boostic (stupid statement, but maybe helpful for those with experience in the OG). I was never able to get my hands on the OG Boostic in 41.5, but I've climbed a lot in the OG in 41 and 42. Based on these experiences, I believe that the Boostic R will satisfy OG Boostic users, and while not an exact replica of the OG, are a worthy update.

An area where I still have questions is how they will hold up over time/to resoling. I think the burlier materials of the OG model are a big part of why they take a resole well, so I am interested to see what kind of breakdown will happen with the newer model. Also, after stuffing them into hand and fist size cracks, the forefoot straps are showing wear, and I could see this being a failure point. I will probably reinforce the strap/attachment point with seam grip or something. 

It will also be interesting to see if they soften more over time than the OG. One reason I drifted from TC's to Boostics is that I always felt like TC's were amazing for a while, but once their midsole ( which is basically cardboard) was exposed to a lot of heat and sweat they became super mushy. The OG Boostics didn't have this issue, and hopefully the R is the same; time will tell.

Apologies for the overly-wordy post, but I am obsessed with shoes and love talking about them! Also, Karl if you make it to this point, I think that .5 size up from your Instinct VS size (assuming those things are max-tightness) would meet your use-case, but if you can try the same size and .5 up, I would.    

Thanks for the detailed review Xan! I am curious if you or anyone else could comment on how the Scarpa Generator compares to the Boostic R.

I was a big fan of the OG and used them for a variety of sizes for pretty much everything face climbing related. It does seems wild to use a Boostic for crack climbing. I feel the toes would feel baggy with out a little scrunch? I have transitioned to using 2 different sized Generators and feel they are excellent and a full replacement for the OGs + crack climb better.

Basically I am wondering what notable advantages the Boostics would have over the Generators for multi pitch or trad climbing applications.

. wrote:

Thanks for the detailed review Xan! I am curious if you or anyone else could comment on how the Scarpa Generator compares to the Boostic R.

I was a big fan of the OG and used them for a variety of sizes for pretty much everything face climbing related. It does seems wild to use a Boostic for crack climbing. I feel the toes would feel baggy with out a little scrunch? I have transitioned to using 2 different sized Generators and feel they are excellent and a full replacement for the OGs + crack climb better.

Basically I am wondering what notable advantages the Boostics would have over the Generators for multi pitch or trad climbing applications.

Alright, so I wore the Generator Mid for a bit hoping it would replace the OG's and it never really worked for me. I tried it in 41 and 40.5, and I tried the women's as well. For me, they were great for thin hands and larger cracks and great for standing on small edges and smearing, but when it came time for more technical foot placements (thin/flaring jams, pulling from the side, etc), I couldn't make them work. The Boostic simply fits my foot way better, and the asymmetry and downturn make me feel way more confident anytime the footholds get a little 'off-piste'. 

In terms of the fit, I have never felt comfortable climbing with my toes flat; even in cracks, and in the Boostics my toes are definitely scrunched (even in my comfy sizes). However, because of the width and asymettrical cut, I feel like my little toes lay pretty flat, while my bigger toes stay scrunched. YMMV, of course.

Ignoring the differences in fit, and considering that you are happy with the Generators, I can't say that the Boostic would offer any huge advantages. In a multipitch context I think velcro is really nice; I always take my shoes off between pitches (or at the very least pop out my heels). It also makes on the fly adjustments easy. For climbing cracks, I find the Boostic more precise (pointier toe, more sensitive) than the Generator, so I feel more confident in less secure jams and feel like I can use little edges/offsets in the crack that I would probably ignore in the Generator. Would the Boostic be my choice for something like Serenity/Sons or Supercrack, no way, but they work well enough for me in that type of context that if there is any hard for me climbing on a route, I'm taking them.

mountainhick wrote:

How about new boostic size for an original TC Pro 42.5 wearer?

I don't have new Boostics, but my old ones were always 44 and my performance fit TC's were 42.5. That's both for a snug fit; my La Spo & Scarpa runners are 45.

A J wrote:

I don't have new Boostics, but my old ones were always 44 and my performance fit TC's were 42.5. That's both for a snug fit; my La Spo & Scarpa runners are 45.

Thanks!

Did you wear TC 43 and Boostic 44.5 for all day? I have two different sized feet, most comfortable in a TC 42.5/43 split

mountainhick wrote:

Thanks!

Did you wear TC 43 and Boostic 44.5 for all day? I have two different sized feet, most comfortable in a TC 42.5/43 split

Honestly I climb all day in TC42.5/B44 but a size up is always nice. They stretch a bit once broken in despite all of that rubber on top. I do think you want a pretty tight pair as some toe crunch helps with the edging performance IMO. 

I got the new Boostics in the same size as my Instinct VS and they fit great- wouldn't go up or down for thin edge bouldering.

Just ordered mine from Oluinid, anyone know a cheaper state side option?

Nope, Oliunid and EpicTV are your best bets beside having a Scarpa pro deal.

Anyone know whether they'll be releasing them in sizes larger than 45? I've looked all over, but never even seen anything larger than 45 listed as out of stock. 

It would be a real pity if the size run ended at 45 considering how useful they are for climbers with big feet that need a lot of support. 

Karl Walters wrote:

I got the new Boostics in the same size as my Instinct VS and they fit great- wouldn't go up or down for thin edge bouldering.

I did this and I think they're much more narrow than the Instincts. Anyone on the Front Range want a pair of 40s? or trade for 41s

Chris Stocking wrote:

Anyone know whether they'll be releasing them in sizes larger than 45? I've looked all over, but never even seen anything larger than 45 listed as out of stock. 

It would be a real pity if the size run ended at 45 considering how useful they are for climbers with big feet that need a lot of support. 

I emailed them and this is the response I got. (I was being tongue and cheek so their response fits the tone lol)

I don’t think it is a hyperbole to say this is the worse thing that’s ever happened to me. :( 

Real big bummer that they're not producing any larger sizes (there are soo many climbers with feet larger than a TC43). 

@Garret, mind sharing the email address you sent that message to so I (and anyone else who wants to) can join in on the letter-writing campaign? 

I’m not surprised the Boostic Rs only go up to 45, it’s the same with most of their other specialized performance shoes (Drago, Chimera, Furia, Booster etc). Still a bummer. My dad has a similar issue with the TC Pros, he’s a 48.5 in climbing shoes but they only go to a 46.

I just got a pair of the Boostic Rs in a 44 (street shoe 45), they feel tighter than my Katana Laces in a 43.5 and my Miura Laces in a 43, but not as tight as my Testarossas in a 42.5. So maybe similar to an La Sportiva 43? Guess it just depends on your foot shape.

They feel a tad softer under the arch than my Katana Lace’s but much stiffer in the forefoot. And the Boostic R’s are more aggressive. Also there’s this super plush and soft material they use in the toe box and heel that feels so good. I’m very excited to try these shoes out.

Chris Stocking wrote:

Real big bummer that they're not producing any larger sizes (there are soo many climbers with feet larger than a TC43). 

@Garret, mind sharing the email address you sent that message to so I (and anyone else who wants to) can join in on the letter-writing campaign? 

customerservice@scarpa.com

PSA - downsize 1/2 from the old/original parrot Boostics. AKA an original size 40.5 = (or is even a TINY bit smaller) than a new size 40.

My quick impression is that the new one is slightly less stiff in the arch and has a slightly looser or less stiff heel. I have an easier time slipping my foot into a revised 40 than an original 40.5, but they feel VERY similar once wiggled into place.

For reference this is a 40.5 in the original, 40.5 in the blue/black, and 40 in the newly made Boostic R.

I think the new ones are about 80% the same as the originals and 20% like th blue/blacks in terms of style and feel. They’ll be nicer for folks who had Achilles issues with the original. Hopefully just as stiff, especially through the arch and on the outside edges, but I suspect a tiny bit softer. Weight/shaper up front is identical.

blakeherrington wrote:

PSA - downsize 1/2 from the old/original parrot Boostics. AKA an original size 40.5 = (or is even a TINY bit smaller) than a new size 40.

My quick impression is that the new one is slightly less stiff in the arch and has a slightly looser or less stiff heel. I have an easier time slipping my foot into a revised 40 than an original 40.5, but they feel VERY similar once wiggled into place.

For reference this is a 40.5 in the original, 40.5 in the blue/black, and 40 in the newly made Boostic R.

I think the new ones are about 80% the same as the originals and 20% like th blue/blacks in terms of style and feel. They’ll be nicer for folks who had Achilles issues with the original. Hopefully just as stiff, especially through the arch and on the outside edges, but I suspect a tiny bit softer. Weight/shaper up front is identical.

How does the sizing in the R compare to the blue/black?