El cap, getting down from the Nose in the next few weeks (weather depending)

Eric Craig wrote:

…I have also been up there in December and in January when the rock was dry, no ice to fall  off, even climbing in a T shirt warm and comfortable...

I for one don't know what conditions are at this time. 

We were on it in t-shirts a week ago, some friends were on EC in sunny conditions a couple days ago… and seems like a streak of sunshine is continuing 

Patsy wrote:

So, did they make it?

We decided a winter ascent had to be done with a high quality portaledge.  Got up to Sickle ledge, fixed ropes.   

McKinley Thompson wrote:

We decided a winter ascent had to be done with a high quality portaledge.  Got up to Sickle ledge, fixed ropes.   

Nice conditions on the wall but short days.  Was sweating st some points during day. 

Trolls are alive and well on MP.  Always appreciate constructive, helpful Info but being F arrogant or demeaning isn’t necessary.  
Time to invest in a portaledge. 

Thanks for the update. 

A portaledge, eh? 

Patsy wrote:

So, did they make it?

Currently on sickle ledge. Don’t see any fixed ropes

Bail up! 

I hear Sloan rents porta ledges

McKinley Thompson wrote:

Trolls are alive and well on MP.  Always appreciate constructive, helpful Info but being F arrogant or demeaning isn’t necessary.  
Time to invest in a portaledge. 

Having spent a bunch of time on MP I think that most respondents were fairly nice and trying to be helpful.  You asked a question and a bunch of folks answered.  It's all part of the learning process.  Don't feel bad about bailing.  I bailed a number of times on El cap before I summited and it was learning from the mistakes I made that eventually helped me get to the top.  The failure rate on the Nose is about 50% even when the weather is good and trying to wall climb in winter is obviously more challenging win a variety of ways. Just keep going back and learning and you will summit eventually.

Dan Mydans wrote:

Having spent a bunch of time on MP I think that most respondents were fairly nice and trying to be helpful.  You asked a question and a bunch of folks answered.  It's all part of the learning process.  Don't feel bad about bailing.  I bailed a number of times on El cap before I summited and it was learning from the mistakes I made that eventually helped me get to the top.  The failure rate on the Nose is about 50% even when the weather is good and trying to wall climb in winter is obviously more challenging win a variety of ways. Just keep going back and learning and you will summit eventually.

Thanks Dan,

Yes I'm good with what we tried, it's all learning.   Appreciate your feedback!!  Also releived to know the 50% success rate and that there's a lot of learning!

Cheers,

Max

Dan Mydans wrote:

Don't feel bad about bailing

Seconded. Bailing off El cap is basically a rite of passage. Besides, retreating with the full wall kit is a skill unto itself.

Why the portaledge? And also, if you go the route of acquiring a ledge, have you considered Lurking Fear? I thought that route was awesome, and more straightforward than the nose. A ledge isn't strictly necessary there either but the natural ledge at pitch 10 or whatever doesn't look comfortable 

Gotta love a poor boys Patagonia.

But in the words of yoda” do or do not, there is no try” 

Next time you gonna send!

Jabroni McChufferson wrote:

Gotta love a poor boys Patagonia.

But in the words of yoda” do or do not, there is no try” 

Next time you gonna send!

We will do Washingtons column (South face) w/fixed ropes on pitches 4-6 in the early spring.  We can camp with a tent up there too!!

Good on you to give it a try.  Good on you to make the Big Announcement here.  ;)

+1 for sure on Peter's comment. 

I never thought of this before,  but you could bring a BBQ, folding table and chairs up there too. It is Dinner Ledge after all. 

Eric Craig wrote:

I never thought of this before,  but you could bring a BBQ, folding table and chairs up there too.

It's been done, multiple times.

Marc801 C wrote:

It's been done, multiple times.

Oh no doubt at all. Never been  my kinda thing, but where I am at in life now, I can maybe see being the caterer. Then just take everything down in the morning,  while everyone else goes up. I've climbed the route about 7 or 8 times. Don't really need to do it anymore. 

Marc801 C wrote:

It's been done, multiple times.

That sounds awesome to add to ones 70lb haulbag!!!       

Best (and cheapest) camping in the valley

Jack Kelly wrote:

Best (and cheapest) camping in the valley

For sure thats my neext plan in the Spring!  Then fix ropes and climb!