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New scarpa phantom tech HD

Bruno Schull · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 0

@ Alex

Thanks so much for those details--that really helps. 

Bruno

Kyle Robert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 0

@Alex, or anyone else

Is the lack of BOA a concern on the latest round of Scarpas (6000 and Tech HD)? I'm currently wearing some La Sportiva Baruntse's and while they are warm that are extremely heavy (3000g total). I'm seriously considering the LS G-Summit for the BOA and single/double capabilities. But the Phantom Tech's seem to have a very loyal following.

Kyle

NateC · · Utah · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 1
Kyle Robertwrote:

@Alex, or anyone else

Is the lack of BOA a concern on the latest round of Scarpas (6000 and Tech HD)? I'm currently wearing some La Sportiva Baruntse's and while they are warm that are extremely heavy (3000g total). I'm seriously considering the LS G-Summit for the BOA and single/double capabilities. But the Phantom Tech's seem to have a very loyal following.

Kyle

For me personally, I haven’t found a mountaineering boot with BOA that provides as good a fit for my foot as boots with lace based systems. So the lack of a boa on the Scarpa boots is actually a plus, depending on who you ask.

It’s not that I don’t think boa systems can’t give a good fit, but so far no one has implemented one that works better than laces to lock my heels down. 

Kyle Robert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 0

@Alex

Thank you for the insights. Off hand what kind of temperatures have you taken them to and been comfortable? I understand temperature is subjective but I have concerns about their warmth. I might try to pair them with a heated sock. 

Kyle

Alex Styp · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 75
Kyle Robertwrote:

@Alex

Thank you for the insights. Off hand what kind of temperatures have you taken them to and been comfortable? I understand temperature is subjective but I have concerns about their warmth. I might try to pair them with a heated sock. 

Kyle

I just took them to Canada and climbed Icefields/Banff/the ghost in down to ~+5F, maybe 0F one day. The day that it was 0-5F I had one sort of cold foot at a belay for a bit, but warmed right up as soon as I started moving at all again. I do suspect that boot was overtightened a bit impeding blood flow on the top of the foot, but couldn't be bothered to tweak the fit once I was kitted and a couple pitches up.I wear thin, light compression wool ski socks. 

Interestingly, they did not seem to get as sweaty/moist from hiking as all the other phantoms/boots I have had over the years except for maybe my old rebel pros (totally different class of boot).  I do run fairly warm but not exceptionally so. I would get cold at belays in the last phantom at 10-15F if I was not moving much, and 15-20F if I was just sitting around for hours (occasionally wear these for work events where that happens). TLDR they feel as if they might allow for ~5-10F colder temps than the previous version. 

I don't mind the lack of boa either. I did like it on my spantiks bitd, and they are easy to repair in the field once you get the hang of them (practice this at home before you take them up Denali or whatever), but laces are just super simple and never fail ever. 

Kyle Robert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 0

The one interesting point someone made about the BOA is loosening it at belay completely to promote circulation and toe movement. That had me thinking a bit.

La MoMoface · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 60

I had a pair of Vasque MPossible mountain boots with boa that I absolutely loved. Could tighten or loosen easily with gloves on, never seemed to budge. Now I have a pair of boa wading boots that are constantly going loose. Kind of a pain. Not sure if it's just because wading boots in general are a looser fit?

I can't tie my ice boots with regular laces without help (one handed problems) so I'm experimenting this week with a slide lock that I bought on amazon. Will report back. 

AlpineIce · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255
Kyle Robertwrote:

The one interesting point someone made about the BOA is loosening it at belay completely to promote circulation and toe movement. That had me thinking a bit.

The newest gen BOA allows you to back-click to loosen the lines; same as you forward-click to tighten, you can now back-click to micro-loosen. With the previous gen BOA, there was no loosening, per se - just completely open.

Lothian Buss · · Durango, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

Does anyone know if the soles are stiffer than last years Phantom Tech? The fit was great, but last year's sole flexed just a little too much for me. 

Matt Doherty · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2022 · Points: 0
Lothian Busswrote:

Does anyone know if the soles are stiffer than last years Phantom Tech? The fit was great, but last year's sole flexed just a little too much for me. 

I'm testing the HD's out compared to the last version, the soles seem pretty similar to me honestly. Kindof like one of the previous posters, I can't decide if they heel is more secure than the previous version or not. I really want to like these things as they're so light and nimble, climb incredibly... it's probably just the shape of my foot/heel as I was out at it with the previous version this Fall and my heels got torched. Trying the ezFit method right now which seems like a fair compromise.

All that said, does anyone have any more info on the La Sportiva G-Summits compared to the new HD's or the previous version of phantoms? I'm looking at that as an alternative as much as I think I prefer a regular lacing system. If anyone has additional thoughts or suggestions, please share.

Also, if anyone's interested in some brand-new HD models, I bought 3 sizes (EU 43.5, 44, and 44.5), I'll at most be keeping one if any of them and I'd be cool selling them discounted locally here in the states rather than dealing with international return shipping and duty fees. Hit me up if you're interested. 217-303-2735

Kyle Robert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 0

Hey Matt, out of curiosity what is your street shoe size and which of the ordered sizes are you thinking fits best?

Matt Doherty · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2022 · Points: 0
Kyle Robertwrote:

Hey Matt, out of curiosity what is your street shoe size and which of the ordered sizes are you thinking fits best?

Hey Kyle,

I'm a 10.5 generally in a street shoe. I'm gonna finish trying them all out today and I will follow up and let you know.

Matt Doherty · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2022 · Points: 0

Ok, so honestly, I didn't notice much difference in heel lift between any of the 3 sizes. It was primarily a matter of room in the toe box with 43.5 being the least and 44.5 being the most obviously. That said, I think I'm on the fence between 43.5 and 44. Either of them could work as they both have sufficient room in the toebox, its moreso just a debate of how precise of a feet and feel you want. But again, I feel like I'd be confident on the ice with either. Heck, even 44.5 didn't feel overwhelmingly large and could work, I think it's just not my preference between the 3. Again, if anyone's interested in a pair, let me know and we can talk more.

Bel Aoros · · Hungary/Italy · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 0

It looks like Colin Haley is testing a new version of the Phantom Tech. Unfortunately there is not much close-up video to figure out if it has a boa silhouette or not. Altough it looks like the gaiter was redesigned for sure using multiple materials.

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 4,588

I went to Sportiva because of BOA. I hope scarpa adds it in someday and I’ll go back. I just like turquoise better than yellow.. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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