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Clevis Hooks with homemade(?) hangers as Mussies

Original Post
Evan Schiewe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 53

I recently climbed up at the Emeralds and ran into some anchor hardware I hadn't seen before.  The hooks are clevis style with a threaded bolt and nut attaching them to the rest of the anchor. They seem to be fine from a strength standpoint, but I really didn't love the bolt hanger on the left, or that this setup makes it pretty difficult to clip to anything other than the hooks themselves.

That left hangar was set up in a way that the back of the bolt securing the hook was resting on the rock, but it still seemed like loading it would be levering it out from the wall. Am I wrong to be concerned about that setup?

Adam W · · TX/Nevada · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 532

I’m surprised there is an actual hanger on the right and not a washer stack that setup is trash and due for a replacement imo

Evan Schiewe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 53

Yeah, I couldn't see any markings on the left "hanger" to try and ID it, but there's zero chance it's rated for anything.  It's not even clear if it's store bought instead of homemade.

Just kinda weird that they clearly have access to quality hardware and decided only half the anchor needed it.

Evan Schiewe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 53

JW - that's a kind offer but it's not necessary.  I will definitely take your advice and pick up some replacement hardware before I head up there next season!

Alex R · · Golden · Joined May 2015 · Points: 228

It could be a trick of the perspective, but the bolt on the left looks like a smaller diameter. The right one looks like a standard 3/8 wedge, so I am guessing the left is 5/16. A standard hanger is going to be a loose fit, and it would be best to replace the whole bolt. Your local LCO is going to have a better guess on whether the 5/16 is a wedge or split shaft and how urgently it needs replacement.

My guess is that the left bolt is older than the right, either the anchor was half rebolted, or the route used to be a walk off with no anchor and the right bolt was added next to the last lead bolt to create an anchor.

Edit: Looking at it again, I think the left one is 1/4". Definitely wouldn't fit well with a hanger with a 3/8" or 1/2" hole which is what is standard now.

Bobby Hutton · · West Slope · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 1,164

Those flat hangers were installed by one of the main climbing stewards in the area. They use normal hangers now, happy to put you in touch. 

The way I understand it was they had the flat hangers manufactured 20 or 30 years ago. They are probably 300 series stainless. I have replaced a number, mostly bc they are often paired with non stainless bolts. 

We tested some but unfortunately I can't find the footage, I believe we published it but won't swear to it. If memory serves it was hard to find a connector small enough to fit in the eye and strong enough to get the flat hanger to fail. If I recall correctly they failed north of 20 kN. 

I am willing to bet both bolts are 3/8". 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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