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Big falls and your rope sheath

Original Post
Scrawny White Guy in a Yellow Shirt · · San Luis Obispo, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 367

I've run into an issue when taking large falls the rope sheath seems to melt. 

At least I think that is the case. Specifically the sheath looks okay-ish to the eyes, but feels stiff and quite rough where it ran through the draw during the fall. 

This primarily happens on perma draws, but not exclusively. 

Any tips/tricks to avoid this other than "don't take big falls nerd!"? I'm constantly chopping rope ends as the sheath gets destroyed and the core becomes visible.

Side note: Are there any accident reports of a rope breaking NOT from rock abrasion? ie, breaking in the draw from a fall? 

dave custer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 3,108

Yes. More than anecdotal. Relatively prominent incident where a perma-draw was worn from regular lowering (overhanging route, so lowering wear groove is different from falling wear groove) and then someone fell on that draw and the wear on the draw from lowering (sharpish edge) cut the rope. With time and coffee on a rainy day, maybe I could find a reference to this incident.

mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/10/mario_luginbuhl_dead_in_tragic_accident-67521

Ben Zartman · · Little Compton, RI · Joined Apr 2024 · Points: 0

I think one price of habitually taking large falls is rope wear--it's doing its job of absorbing energy and saving your life, and that naturally takes a toll.  You just need to budget for more ropes.

Yesterday's UIAA plenary safety meeting had a discussion of rope breaking not by friction, but by pinching itself at an edge where the biner was back from the edge, rather than properly extended over.  The upper leg of the rope pressed down on the lower leg, preventing the potential stretch from running freely, and snapped.

mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0
Ben Zartmanwrote:

I think one price of habitually taking large falls is rope wear--it's doing its job of absorbing energy and saving your life, and that naturally takes a toll.  You just need to budget for more ropes.

Yesterday's UIAA plenary safety meeting had a discussion of rope breaking not by friction, but by pinching itself at an edge where the biner was back from the edge, rather than properly extended over.  The upper leg of the rope pressed down on the lower leg, preventing the potential stretch from running freely, and snapped.

https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/9/11/the-prescriptionseptember

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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