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The "SAY" a thing? Thoughts and pics from '23/'24 in the Lower 48

Original Post
Jim Clarke · · Fruitland, UT · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 2,520

Skier's have the "TAY" = "Turns All Year"...I'll say it's the "SAY" = "Sticks All Year" - or "Swings?" Perhaps a senseless endeavor but the ice version sure beats humping skis up to some 100 yard patch of snow in August. A friend in Colorado has "skied" every month of the year for something like 15+ years - borderline mental institution... At least for the ice dork there's summer travel to cooler temps in alpine environs and some worthy classic alpine routes. 

So is this "SAY" a thing? (ie. have people pursued it?) and if so who here has done it? 

Sorta pulled it off this season in the Lower 48, which was a surprise considering the realities of warming. Black marks on the scorecard were an out of condition solo of Martha (ugh, yes Martha...and it wasn't "IN") - but for 300' of disintegrating AI2 gully ice then drytooled "in" a waterfall where the true ice pitch forms. Also did an idiotic rap into upper Black Ice after partner bailed last minute. Two raps, then downclimbed a bit then soloed and TRS'd out as some large rockfall rattled the shit out of me. Points though for a one day "suffer haul" with a 35lb pack to upper saddle? Maybe...

Perhaps the "Global Warming Gold Medal" is full routes in prime condition all in lower 48, with the "Silver Medal" some Canada and/or AK. For the "Bronze" add a South America trip? 

Regardless, some pics below from '23/'24 to get season stoke going. 

Hoping for a quick turn to cold temps. Too hot for late-September. 

Total Abandon - October, 16th '23

Way too early November Uintas...Portal #6

Mid-season FA, The Soul in Strawberry Pinnacles

The rare Mean Streak in Cody

April 9th, 2024 - FA of The High Sirens, Nevada

July 9th - Black Ice 

Aug. 31st - NW Ice Couloir on Middle 

Jim Clarke · · Fruitland, UT · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 2,520

The ugly summer ice obsession on Martha...

FA of The Left Twin, Eastern Utah

Rapping off FA of The Skinwalker, Eastern UT 

Sept. Tower 1 Gully Mt. Helen, Wind Rivers

Sean Anderson · · blue bins from target · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 30

Where are the High Sirens in Nevada? Looks interesting!

Jim Clarke · · Fruitland, UT · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 2,520
Sean Andersonwrote:

Where are the High Sirens in Nevada? Looks interesting!

Eastern Humboldt Range. Long ski to get to for three 100' flows, but the skiing afterwards is all time if zone is filled in. 2k shots right to the car door! 

Sam Beeduhl · · Bend, OR · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 443

Definitely easier in the PNW with seracs. People have been ice climbing on the glaciers in summer for years. Of course we don't have much reliable water ice cragging, so that sucks.

Jim Clarke · · Fruitland, UT · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 2,520
Sam Beeduhlwrote:

Definitely easier in the PNW with seracs. People have been ice climbing on the glaciers in summer for years. Of course we don't have much reliable water ice cragging, so that sucks.

Outside of Devil's Kitchen and others on Hood...always wondered what other mid to late summer, even September lines would be considered "ice climbs" meaning something different than low-angle glacial ice...

Sam Beeduhl · · Bend, OR · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 443
Jim Clarkewrote:

Outside of Devil's Kitchen and others on Hood...always wondered what other mid to late summer, even September lines would be considered "ice climbs" meaning something different than low-angle glacial ice...

Well it's going away fast. Just got to hike up there and see what makes sense.

Matthew L · · Northeast · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0
Jim Clarkewrote:



How are you liking the LS Trango Ice Cubes? I was thinking about picking up a pair. 

Jim Clarke · · Fruitland, UT · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 2,520
Matthew Lwrote:

How are you liking the LS Trango Ice Cubes? I was thinking about picking up a pair. 

Love them but I don't believe Sportiva makes them anymore...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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