Point Dume - Malibu, CA TOP ROPE
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Apologies if this has been addressed but I couldn’t find a thread. I’ve never set up a top rope out there so I’m wondering if anyone knows how much chord I need to get the master point over the edge. I’ve read several things online and it’s a bit inconsistent - usually the consensus is “bring a lot” which is a bit vague. |
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just bring a lot tbh |
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Tyler, you are not local, it looks like. Maybe take a look at Texas Canyon. It’s easy to get to, easy to find the routes. There are a lot of easy/moderate routes there. You’d be leading the routes. |
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You'll want at least two 20-25 ft runners to set up a proper TR. I usually bring my 80 ft, 10mm, static line for fast action and solid equalization. Dume wall is not a great beginner spot unless your guest is strong and talented. The prow offers great moderate climbing but it is very hard to protect. It sticks way out, far from the TR anchors. Leading it is sketchy since the fixed pro is missing and toasted. It is a really great moderate though as long as no one falls. The easily protected routes are all thin crimpers that are usually slippery due to sand and spray. Still fun but challenging. TR on these is solid and direct. Stoney Point, Mozart's Wall is really the best 1st time TR in the LA area. At Texas Canyon the Acme Toprope wall as an excellent beginner area. It must be set up by someone comfortable with leading and rigging sport climbs at a moderate level. So carry a long static 10mm wherever you go and have a blast. |
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Sorry if I'm misinterpreting, but just in case: I wouldn't recommend using a dynamic rope for anchor material when the rope is running over rock, especially over an edge. Repeated elongation/contraction will quickly tear the rope up. |
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If you only plan on doing a couple routes the 5.6ish arete is my favorite first time climbing experience ever. You get to have a beach day too so you don’t slog your friend out to a crag all day to just climb one or two top ropes. For anchors I clip a doubled over 30ft piece of webbing on each TR bolt joined together with an overhand/BFK. Rappel down the arete and clip a sling to the lone bolt on the climber side of the rope to prevent swing for the top roping climber. Put a towel under the anchor to address friction. Put a tarp on the ground for sand. Be nice to Greg even though he can be kinda annoying. Ask for rigging advice from others. And don’t lead anything. |
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Oh and bring your worst rope and a couple extra slings! |
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Hi Tyler, this year I coauthored a book with John Long called Climbing Anchors that details how to rig topropes using what I call The Joshua Tree System. It's a good method that works for just about every situation you'll encounter when you need to extend from the anchors. |
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I have set up a top rope at this location with only a 60 m climbing rope and 2 locking carabiners. There is a summit block the I have tied one end of my rope around with a bowline knot then extended over the edge a figure eight loop in the same rope with 2 opposing locking carabiners that then have the additional rope running through as a top rope. |




