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Aid practice around Keene Valley?

Original Post
Matt J · · Lakewood CO · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 5

Hey,

Will be around Keene valley over labor day weekend and want to practice C1 aid up cracks, etc.  I'm an aid-gumby so will probably be taking my time, just getting the systems figured out.  Any recommended crags to get good practice but not get in the way of labor day crowds?  Single pitch only, please.  Last thing I'd want to do is create chaos at a popular cliff like spider's web.  Thanks. 

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,777

Dacker Cracker at the Web is perfect for this. And I don't think there'd be hordes of people itching to get on it.   Another, short option is the un-named hand crack on the south side of Rt 73 just downhill of the pulloff closest to where you get a view of Roaring Bk Falls. So 2 or maybe 3 pulloffs below the Web parking spot.  Note - the pull-out I'm referring to is closed off (no parking), so you'll have to walk down from the open pull-out or up from the Roaring Bk trailhead lot.

Matt J · · Lakewood CO · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 5

You're the best, thanks for the beta.  I'll probably try spider's web and bail to your other suggestion if I feel like I'm getting in the way.

Stein Pull · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0

I aided a pair of 5.10 cracks at the Beer Walls a number of years ago. I think they were Tequila Mockingbird and Neutron Brew. Ended up finishing in a downpour but it was still fun. Fairly straightforward aid - nothing scary or overly challenging. They're likely exactly what you're looking for. Have fun!

Matt J · · Lakewood CO · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 5

Ended up going to spiders web and aiding romano's route and dacker cracker.  Learned a few lessons the hard way with how steep romano's was (i.e., buy a fifi).  It was perfect though - only one other group was there so I didn't feel like a bother.  I think I was overestimating how popular the dacks are coming from the colorado crowds.  Thank you both.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,777
Matt J wrote:

Ended up going to spiders web and aiding romano's route and dacker cracker.  Learned a few lessons the hard way with how steep romano's was (i.e., buy a fifi).  It was perfect though - only one other group was there so I didn't feel like a bother.  I think I was overestimating how popular the dacks are coming from the colorado crowds.  Thank you both.

What's your aider/daisy/tether set-up, and how would the fifi help?

Matt J · · Lakewood CO · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 5

Have been using the ladders without tethers, I'm sure they would've helped too.  Romanos route was past vertical so i felt like i had to keep using energy to pull myself with one arm toward the wall while stepping up to place a piece.  I wasted energy where I could've just hung on the fifi and reached higher.

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 510

no daisy in the modern age. go straight to the Petzl connect. some folks re tie them on longer cord for more reach. there may be a better version? Edelride?  essentially a strong version of an adjustable daisy. makes life super easy. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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