Climbing near the coast between Tokeland, WA and Tillamook, OR

Anybody know of some good moderate sport/tr climbing between this area? Ideally near the coast as well. I’m aware of recent development within the Cape Disappointment so I will definitely be checking that area out, but I’m curious about any other possible climbing within this region that I may not be aware about (BTW if anyone is aware of even newer developments in the Cape Disappointment area beyond whats on MP please lmk). There seems to be potential in the Neahkahnie mountain area and I wouldn’t be surprised if theres a few climbs there I’m missing.

I'd also be curious to know if anything exists

I climbed up at Cape Disappointment last year with Kirk Miller. There were a handful of sport routes most of which one of his friends (whose name I forget) put up, ranging from 5.8-5.11 if I remember correctly. Probably more boulder problems than sport but I haven't checked them out. 

Kind of a long drive from my neck of the woods, but there's quite of bit more potential just on the main formation

Jason, I believe the person you forgot the name of is Mark R. I’ve seen him mentioned around on some posts in that area. What was the condition of the bolts there as I can’t imagine the proximity to the ocean is doing any favors. If you have any videos or beta for the climbs I’d be grateful as well. How far are you from the area? We should meet up and climb, I’m pretty confident leading 5.8-5.9 here in Texas which has much worse bolt spacing than there it seems.

The bolting was all relatively recent and I didn't see anything that would make me suspect any of the bolts. That said I'm not a route developer and that is the only coastal crag I've been to so I can't make any guarantees

Unfortunately I didn't write down any beta. You might try to message Kirk as he was pretty hard up for climbing partners, but I never made it back out there so I haven't been in touch with him to know if he's back in the area and still wanting to climb this year.

I'll be up in Squamish the rest of the month, but I usually climb around portland...ilwaco is 2 hours drive and there's a lot more to the east in that range. That said if you're around Portland (or find a new interesting crag between hillsboro and the coast) later this summer feel free to message me.

Alright thanks for the info. Hows the rock quality? Is it chossy or full of suspect holds, or pretty solid overall? And if you can hazard a guess, about how tall were the walls, mostly around the elephant wall area.

It's a little chossy but not the worst place I've climbed at. Routes are pretty short, maybe 40 or 50 ft

Is the MountainProject listing the best route guide for Cape Disappointment? Doesn’t look to be a lot at or above 5.10/V3 

Patrick, as far as I can tell it is the best place to look for routes. Almost none of the routes are listed though. You have to go to the pages for the areas and look at the images to find the routes. The main areas are the elephant ridge and the back crags. With most routes located in the elephant ridge. There’s not much info but the consensus seems to be the routes go from 5.8-5.11 or so. There is some opportunity for climbing in the amphitheater but no established routes as far as I know. If you’re interested in climbing together I will be nearby almost the entirety of July.

Just an update incase anybody is interested. As of my recent visit (6/30), there are two routes that seem new on the monolith wall. I added the right route as that was the only one I could do at the moment on lead rope solo. I’ll come back and give it a shot on top rope solo at a later date. Don’t know if this is more work by this Mark R I’ve seen mentioned or someone else.

I was able to check it out yesterday (7/5). Awesome spot, enough climbs for a days worth of climbing, and every easy and moderate grade range represented. Monolith wall has two sport routes, sharing the same anchor, whose anchors is accessible via hiking the backside. That anchor can give you three TR lines, following the seam originating left of the tree (10a?), the bolted line directly underneath (5.8?), and the stairsteppy dihedral to the right (5.6). The leftmost bolted line is now listed on MP, but both me and my partner thought 10.b, not the given 11.d... The middle area of Monolith has a horn that can be slung with a quad length sling for TRing some likely Veasy/5.7 highballs, but we opted to go to the Elephant Ridge.

Elephant Ridge has 6 bolted routes, identified well by the fourth photo on the area page. Route 3 has anchors accessible by 3rd class scramble around the back to set up TR. Easy to redirect to the lower Route 2 and Route 1 anchors, or lead/traverse over to routes 4, 5, and 6.

High 1st Bolts are nervous, but 5.7 climbing to reach. Do be careful belaying. There are lots of loose rocks, ranging from loose pebbles kicked off ledges, loose nubs torn off by the belay side rope, or entire bricks ripped off by desperate climbers. The key holds on the routes are solid, but take care on lead and belaying. Make sure yourself or your belayer leaves plenty of room for rockfall under the climber. Bolts are in good shape, though the tight zig zag on route 4 is odd. The rightmost bolt spun, so my guess is the other close-by bolts are replacements.

I climbed route 2, 3, and 4 and would offer 11.c, 10.a, 10.a from my perspective as internet stranger and grateful visitor of this awesome development in the area.

Hi Patrick, appreciate the input! I put up the right line on MP on the monolith wall , while Mark put up the other. Appreciate the beta on extra lines. I was too scared to give elephant ridge a shot on my first visit due to being on LRS and setting up an anchor that high felt dangerous. I was able to scramble up but the anchors seemed too low to reach from the top. Maybe I missed something. Mark suggested using a cam to reach it, but I don’t have a trad rack unfortunately. Him and I will be out hopefully sometime next week so I can give it a shot.