New Era Garden of The Gods Toprope

I was hoping to climb New Era in Garden of the Gods via Toprope by using two ropes. Setting up an anchor at the top, rappeling to the end of P1 or P2 and rappeling to the bottom from there. Climbing the route and walking off. I was wondering if anyone had any beta on how to build an anchor at the top of the route.

Hudson Frankwrote:

I was hoping to climb New Era in Garden of the Gods via Toprope by using two ropes. Setting up an anchor at the top, rappeling to the end of P1 or P2 and rappeling to the bottom from there. Climbing the route and walking off. I was wondering if anyone had any beta on how to build an anchor at the top of the route.

Hire a guide or read a book

From the page on New Era: at the top, there are 3 fixed pins. 

Note, pins are not 100% in soft sandstone, especially if things have been rained upon recently.

Still, it is only a 5.7, so why not lead it?

Hudson Frankwrote:

I was hoping to climb New Era in Garden of the Gods via Toprope by using two ropes. Setting up an anchor at the top, rappeling to the end of P1 or P2 and rappeling to the bottom from there. Climbing the route and walking off. I was wondering if anyone had any beta on how to build an anchor at the top of the route.

dangerous rock fall gauranteed if u rap or run long ropes over the soft sandstone

u will send down rocks on yourself and others

top belay is set with cord around a mushroom cap of rock

which is north north east of summit

can be backed up with #2 

good luck figuring out where to build an anchor

fyi rapping in will cause u to step on loose flakes and u will shower rock down so be sure no one is bellow 

no pins are at the top anylonger 

safer to free climb it than do the 5th class scramble to the top 

Leo Paikwrote:

From the page on New Era: at the top, there are 3 fixed pins. 

Note, pins are not 100% in soft sandstone, especially if things have been rained upon recently.

Still, it is only a 5.7, so why not lead it?

The OP is asking how to build an anchor.  Do you really think they know how to lead anything? 

Chad Millerwrote:

The OP is asking how to build an anchor.  Do you really think they know how to lead anything? 

Oh sorry. Yeah, JFGI OP. There are many many many videos out there. 3 piece anchor.

https://youtu.be/3Dx2w358rWY?si=ENvtDdwkOn4tPd9s

https://youtu.be/qYvaJaDsSPU?si=vc_yQUmZrXwK2cA8

https://youtu.be/oT8fGR7qxeg?si=IA1SA4ICGlzyp-Gr

https://youtu.be/pvuoF2813DA?si=LLQ6cuygk7dcG2rU

https://youtu.be/TZlfpi0lav8?si=5ML9OImviQOSmtK0

https://youtu.be/Xzw9ZT-J71E?si=tSI3caMUiXr6-_No

https://youtu.be/LwAEXZA9ZmE?si=YQKs3g6rhCVqZYHi

https://youtu.be/HQukLqiToJE?si=SPstZH5G91zyLzae

John Clarkwrote:

Oh sorry. Yeah, JFGI OP. There are many many many videos out there. 3 piece anchor.

https://youtu.be/3Dx2w358rWY?si=ENvtDdwkOn4tPd9s

https://youtu.be/qYvaJaDsSPU?si=vc_yQUmZrXwK2cA8

https://youtu.be/oT8fGR7qxeg?si=IA1SA4ICGlzyp-Gr

https://youtu.be/pvuoF2813DA?si=LLQ6cuygk7dcG2rU

https://youtu.be/TZlfpi0lav8?si=5ML9OImviQOSmtK0

https://youtu.be/Xzw9ZT-J71E?si=tSI3caMUiXr6-_No

https://youtu.be/LwAEXZA9ZmE?si=YQKs3g6rhCVqZYHi

https://youtu.be/HQukLqiToJE?si=SPstZH5G91zyLzae

Oh great.  Encourage people to learn how to build anchors on YouTube.  Just great. 

Greg Dwrote:

Oh great.  Encourage people to learn how to build anchors on YouTube.  Just great. 

Honestly if you can’t use online resources (which YouTube is just fine) to teach yourself basic skills like anchor building, maybe stick to pebble wrestling.

90% of what I know and use every time I get on the wall comes from multipitchclimbing.com and rgold, not AMGA guides