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Failure of Ushba titanium P bolt

Original Post
David Reeve · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 0

I'm currently examining a Ushba titanium P bolt that has failed through brittle fracture at the weld.

Given the design, such an outcome seems likely to me, but there are heaps of these bolts installed out there and I don't hear of them failing. Do people have any anecdotes they could share?

Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 752
David Reeve · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 0
Austin Donisanwrote:

Not at the weld, but you know about this one?

https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=223649
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=646957&tn=0&mr=0
http://www.erockonline.com/forum/upload/index.php?showtopic=1751

Thanks for the links. Yeah, I have come across it before, but your response prompted me to spend an age wading through the noise once again. It was well I did, because once I filtered out all the folks who had never clapped eyes on it, two facts emerge. a) it was embedded to the head and had never been sticking out from the rock as many seemed to assume, and b) there was a crack at the weld. So, it looks like a brittle fracture, but why at a point I would have thought was outside the HAZ.

The bolt I am examining shows clear embrittlement and micro-fracturing right at the edge of the weld.

There are quite a number of these bolts out there, so if there was a significant failure rate at this weld, the climber rumor mill would be churning.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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