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Good Beginner Aid Routes in NC?

Original Post
Blaine Hartness · · North Carolina · Joined May 2021 · Points: 126

Anyone have any recommendations? I know there's a practice route at Looking Glass on a boulder. But was wondering if there were any more routes? Also, if you need a partner and don't mind some teaching involved feel free to reach out. I have all my own gear. 

Tanner H · · Boone, NC · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 65

Based on your ticks, you’d probably be fine getting on Glass Menagerie. P2 was my first aid lead and felt exciting but not too bad, and the P4 bolt ladder is just fun and exposed. Also, pull on gear if you can’t lead the 5.11 pitches. Easy to bail. I might be free to do it sometime in June. Message me

Blaine Hartness · · North Carolina · Joined May 2021 · Points: 126
Tanner Hwrote:

Based on your ticks, you’d probably be fine getting on Glass Menagerie. P2 was my first aid lead and felt exciting but not too bad, and the P4 bolt ladder is just fun and exposed. Also, pull on gear if you can’t lead the 5.11 pitches. Easy to bail. I might be free to do it sometime in June. Message me

Was wondering how that route would be for a beginner. About to message you

Adam Fleming · · SLC · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 534

GM is a great intro route. Bring a compact stick clip for the bolt ladder if you want. No need to finish the route if you're just getting started with aiding; just do as much as you want. 

I also recommend aiding free routes (as long as you don't use hooks). I know there aren't many splitters in NC, but there's a few routes on the North Side of Looking Glass with fairly continuous cracks you can plug some gear in. 

Blaine Hartness · · North Carolina · Joined May 2021 · Points: 126
Adam Flemingwrote:

GM is a great intro route. Bring a compact stick clip for the bolt ladder if you want. No need to finish the route if you're just getting started with aiding; just do as much as you want. 

I also recommend aiding free routes (as long as you don't use hooks). I know there aren't many splitters in NC, but there's a few routes on the North Side of Looking Glass with fairly continuous cracks you can plug some gear in. 

I have the panic draw made by Kong, would that work? I’ve been doing that at Ship Rock on Harpoon. Will definitely do some more at LG. Would a single 80m work for rapping the GM or are two 60s required? Might be going there next week for the practice boulder so could do the first pitch of the GM

Casey Fenton · · Clemson, SC · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

P1 on GM was my first aid lead and it takes forever if you don’t leave the ladders/are rope soloing. take a partner and be ready to step out the aiders. know how to lower out before cleaning that pitch, 60 is fine to get down from P1

Mitchell L · · Raleigh, NC · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 521

The first pitch of invisible airwaves is also good, just bring a stick clip for the first bolt 

Blaine Hartness · · North Carolina · Joined May 2021 · Points: 126

Thanks for the input everyone 

Adam Fleming · · SLC · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 534
Blaine Hartnesswrote:

I have the panic draw made by Kong, would that work? I’ve been doing that at Ship Rock on Harpoon. Will definitely do some more at LG. Would a single 80m work for rapping the GM or are two 60s required? Might be going there next week for the practice boulder so could do the first pitch of the GM

Hard to say. I did it about 8 years ago. A lightweight stick clip would be helpful in my opinion. Just leave it after the slab pitch. You can rap the route with a 70m according to a comment on the route. 

Adam Fleming · · SLC · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 534
Casey Fentonwrote:

P1 on GM was my first aid lead and it takes forever if you don’t leave the ladders/are rope soloing. take a partner and be ready to step out the aiders. know how to lower out before cleaning that pitch, 60 is fine to get down from P1

The better idea is know how to go free without leaving your ladders. 

Jacob Ward · · Asheville · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 199

Cornflake crack was my first aid. It's super chill, takes cams the whole way. Just make sure to bring enough small pieces. The seal would be another good one, especially for the follower to practice traverses.

nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 8,557
Adam Flemingwrote:

Hard to say. I did it about 8 years ago. A lightweight stick clip would be helpful in my opinion. Just leave it after the slab pitch. You can rap the route with a 70m according to a comment on the route. 

You'll need an additional 70 m rope for the last rappel (from above the roof). Derek was saying to leave this second rope on the ground and have your (first down on a single line) partner attach it so you don't have to haul it all the way up the route.

Many do a similar thing to get off Safari/Cornflake.

You'll likely have one hell of an adventure on the GM if you don't have a second rope, and you don't top out.

Jacob Ward · · Asheville · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 199

Can confirm that without some pretty major shenanigans you need two 70m ropes or an escaper to rap the menage. From the top, do a 35m rap with one rope to the anchor above the offwidth, then do another 30ish m rap to the anchors at the roof, then do a 65m rap to the ground. Leaving a rope on the ground is one way to do it, but I think the better way is to use a skinny tagline to haul your pack up the route, then use that line as the pull cord for a blocked single strand rap.

Jacob Ward · · Asheville · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 199

Also here's the one rope beta for Safari/cornflake: do the world's shortest rap (like 15ft) down and right to the nuclear erection anchors, then do a 35m rap from there to the ground.

Blaine Hartness · · North Carolina · Joined May 2021 · Points: 126

Thanks again everyone! 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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