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Sizing help: Evolv Yosemite Bum vs. Shaman or Butora Altura or Five Ten Grandstone

Original Post
Helen El · · Toronto, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 341

Just wondering how to size these since I have to order online. Wanting a comfortable multipitch trad shoe that still performs well. I have size 39.5 in the Shaman LV (snug but comfortable fit for sport climbing) and size 39 in Butora Altura (comfortable multipitch fit). I recently tried on the Five Ten Grandstone in a size 7 (not sure if M or W) and it felt maybe half size bigger than what I wanted. I also used to wear Scarpa Vapor V in a snug but comfy fit of 37.5, which is a snug version of my street shoe size.

Also, I tried on the Shaman (non-LV) and they were too wide, though I do have a wide forefoot but a narrow heel (I'm a woman). Are the width of the Yosemite Bum LV similar to the Shaman LV?

Thanks!

Mandy M · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

I also have a wide forefoot and a narrow heel. If this helps, I wear a size 40 in women’s Scarpa Vapor Vs and a size 9.5 in the Yosemite Bum LVs. The Vapors are sized for sport climbing and I wouldn’t want to wear them for multiple pitches. The YBs are snug, but still comfortable - I can hang out in them in for a while.

I once briefly owned a pair of Shaman LVs in size 9, but they were definitely too small on me. If I tried them again I’d order a 9.5. So perhaps try your Shaman size in the YBs. 

Helen El · · Toronto, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 341

Thanks for this! Would you say the Vapor Vs are your street shoe size or you sized down from that? Mine are street shoe size (well, sandal size). I should mention they're the old models as well (the leather ones.. I bought them in 2016). Not sure if the sizing remained the same as the new model? My Shamans I had to size up as I found they fit really small. 

Mandy M · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

My Vapors are 1 full size down from my normal shoe size.  I'm typically a size women's 9.5 (41) in running shoes.  I have the newer model ones (green/pink.)  I also wear La Sportiva Kubos in size 39, but most Sportivas don't fit my feet well.  Hope that helps! 

Victor C · · CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 257

Worth considering also the acopa jb and legends.

Ben E · · San Diego · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 161

I’d also recommend Acopa JBs if scarpa and evolv fit you. They’re extremely comfy, I can wear them all day and they perform well. Also they don’t seem to get a ton of love here but I love my Scarpa Generators so far for all but thin cracks. I tried on the Yosemite Bums and they just felt not precise, very soft, and the toe is extremely round. I like a slightly more rounded toe since it fits my foot/toe shape but the YB felt way too rounded and like it would be hard to be precise on small crystals etc. They run pretty small so you’d probably be somewhere around a 38 in them though. If you’re 37.5 vapors, I’d try 36.5-37 generator and maybe a 37.5 in the acopa jbs. 

Brad Johnson · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

I just got some Yosemite Bums and I found their sizing guide to be SPOT on.  1/2 size up was snug a full size would be a perfect all day shoe.  I went 1/2 size up and hopefully will break in slightly so its tight but not too bad. 

Flyin G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2022 · Points: 0

I've been wearing the yb's for almost a year now and here's my experience. 

Most climbing shoes for me is 41 with a snug fit after break in. I got the yb's in 44 with a perfect fit fresh out the box, I didn't think they'd stretch because of the synthetic material. They stretched about 1/4 size larger.

They got really wreched smelling after a while, none of my leather shoes smell, only the yb's. I washed them and they stretched another 1/4 and are now way too big. Now I wear them with socks and they feel snug again but climbing in socks feels foreign to me. I'm going to designate them my winter climbing shoes.

Other than that they were solid. About to send them out for the free resole. I wouldn't buy them again unless I plan to wear socks with them from the get go.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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