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Placing a cam with only one hand
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The other day my friend and I were talking about placing a cam with one hand and how normally we have to unclip the cam carabiner from our gear loop, then fidget around to get our thumb go the thumb loop to contract the lobes. It isn't really something I thought about until that moment but now I'm wondering if there is any Magic technique to unclipping a cam from your gear loop and already having your thumb on the thumb loop. |
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Unclip the cam's racking biner. How the biner with your mouth and grip the cam properly. Trying to fidget hands from biner to cam is a recipe to drop a cam. |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZNyOn-tgr8 Skip to 1:00 for the secret one-handed method |
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Yeah use cams without a thumb loop. Otherwise, practice makes perfect. Or at least reduces the chances of dropping gear. |
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As one more data point, with an over-the-shoulder gear sling it is often possible to place a cam near the body, at say chest height for example, without first unclipping it from the sling. This said I often hold with mouth, or if at at easy stance, two-hand it, just like everyone else. |
Zach Kwrote: That last one is pretty cool, I’ve never thought of that. |
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Avant has you covered. https://avantclimbing.com/products/quick-fire-cam-release https://avantclimbing.com/products/quick-fire-cam-release |
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Teeth A little flip in the hand ( potentially can drop the cam ) Up against your body or rock |
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I like eating my cams. The flick has always felt risky to me but I know a few who've perfected it. |
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Why does it seem like I just don’t think about this and it doesn’t seem to be a problem? |
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My friend Mark places cams using one hand without a flip or teeth. Here’s a compilation he made showing the technique. It’s similar to what’s demo’s in the first posted video with using the thumb to first hook the thumb loop. |
Zach Kwrote: I definitely think this is the best way. It also works with cams with thumb loop cams as well as totems (although it is a bit more fidgety with totems) |
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Just practice, practice. I feel it depends on the angle your placing from and how pumped you are. I usually place with one hand without using my mouth. But sometimes when it requires I use my mouth like if I’m pumped or stressed then I can also use my mouth to assist |
