Albert dow

Thought I would post this in case any of Albert’s friends are lurking here on MP.  For those that didn’t know him, Albert was a guide at the EMS climbing school in Conway.  He perished in an avalanche on Mt. Washington in 1982 while on search and rescue for missing climbers.

Toward the end of his time with us, Albert started developing new routes, including Albert’s Shuffle, [Redacted], and End of the Tether, among others.  He kept a sketchbook with drawings of these ascents.  He commented to me once on the ephinany when you grasp a hold, and realize that you are the first human ever to touch that piece of rock.  I have developed some routes in subsequent years, and often think of his comment when scoping a new wall.

I had wanted to do something to commemorate the fourty years since his death,  but covid, a couple of surgeries, and some recently busted ribs all conspired to blow my deadline.  So, I’m a couple of years late, but just finished a new route dedicated to my buddy: ALbertosaurus Rex, an eighty degree slab with a sea of half- and quarter-joint edges.  I was a slow learner on slabby stuff, and we spent a lot of time on boulders in the forest trying to improve my crummy technique.  Albert had awesome technical skills, so I expect he would have sailed right up this.

The chalkbag that I’m using in the photo is Albert’s; I’ve managed not to lose it for four decades.  I’ld like to think that a couple of his skin cells rubbed off the fleece liner and transferred onto the wall, giving him one more first ascent, at least vicariously.

I’ve put a couple of BITD photos of Albert as well.

Thanks for this reminder Brian. I didn't know Albert very well, but I remember him as a really nice, easy-going guy and an excellent climber. It was a very sad loss for the North Conway community. I'm glad that you are preserving his memory.

Where is that route? Given the surroundings I'm making a wild guess that it isn't in New Hampshire!!!

Hey Mr R!  Albert was an awesome guy, and great friend.  Hard to believe he’s been gone for four+ decades.

The route is in an undisclosed location — west of Chicago, east of Hong Kong, largely south of Winnipeg, more or less.  Stop by sometime for the full tour.

Thanks Brian, nice tribute.

Hits close to home. I was under Jimmy's wing so to speak when I started climbing 1979, and by virtue of the EMS connection, befriended and climbed informally with some of the EMS and North Conway mob including Albert. Actually vaguely remember those striped chalk bags! Everyone up there was onto some kind of sewing or gear development. Chuck Roast, Bouchards etc. Like Alan, I didn't know him that well, but I am grateful for a bit of time with him climbing at Cathedral. Some of his spirit rubbed off in terms of personal relationship with climbing, then his death and the circumstances were a real shock to me and threw my perspective of risk taking very early as a climber.  Grateful to have known him that little bit! 

Hi Brian, Well, that narrows it down a lot!!!!! If I do ever end up in Flag, I'll definitely look you up.

Took  my first  climbing  lessons  with Albert. Became  friends with him still think of him alot. This was when  EMS was at the old hotel  on the corner. Have a couple stories ha!

Great post-  I believe Albert Dow died while saving Hugh Herr, do I have that right?   And if that's the case, Hugh Herr went on to be an important innovator in the field of prosthetics, so that's something to consider as far as legacy.

You are correct Russ. Mike Hartrich was caught with Albert in the avalanche but survived.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/118937794/albert

Albert was an incredible positive force that still inspires. I had the luck to work with him at EMS his last few years and I learned so much from him on and off the rock.

John — I knew about the Tao route named after Albert, but not this one — thanks!