Pinnacle gully / odell gully (huntington ravine )ice climbing condition

Hi,

    Any ideas of pinnacle gully ice  condition . Thinking of doing pinnacle  or odell next thrusday.

Cheers

https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Washington-2/forecasts/1917

Not looking good.  

https://www.mountwashingtonavalanchecenter.org/forecasts/#/all

I’ll be out there Sunday into Monday for a better look. Huntingtons is pretty resilient and usually climbs pretty late into the season. Now, with this absurd winter that’ll still mean about a month earlier than normal unfortunately. Starting this Thursday it’ll be below freezing each night which is somewhat of a help to minimize damage.

Look on the bright side….avalanche danger is low, and you won’t need a belay jacket!

Shawn Johnwrote:

I’ll be out there Sunday into Monday for a better look. Huntingtons is pretty resilient and usually climbs pretty late into the season. Now, with this absurd winter that’ll still mean about a month earlier than normal unfortunately. Starting this Thursday it’ll be below freezing each night which is somewhat of a help to minimize damage.

Look on the bright side….avalanche danger is low, and you won’t need a belay jacket!

Awesome, post the conditions if possible !

Bump for conditions. Thinking about Saturday if the ice weren’t washed away by the ridiculous rain…

if we do have a decent cold snap and you do go up there  you will need an A game because thigs with be FUNKY. look out for moats, ice dams and all kinds of weird shit you would not normally encounter in a normal season. 

+1 For Nick's advice

You can use MWAC observations to get a sense of the ravines, and often a picture of the available ice.

https://www.mountwashingtonavalanchecenter.org/observations/#/view/observations

Yesterday's obvs had "you could hear water running under the snow in many spots and bridges were melted out. Crossing over the Cutler River between Hermit Lake and Hillman's, the caretaker noted that the snow bridge that was missing today was there yesterday."

You need IG to view this, but tucks today. Total trash. IG LINK update: that link now brings me to something totally different. Not sure what changed.

We will be up there this weekend, likely Sunday. We expect nothing climbable and mostly an exploratory mission. We planned to do the best we could with Pinnacle and Odell’s, but shifted our expectations to central if we are lucky. And that’s very optimistic given possible avvy conditions. 

Really helpful links

Andy Caslerwrote:

Really helpful links

Not sure why it dumped it? It did work when I posted it. One more try…

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4NzOpKMnxJ/?igsh=MXJuMWZnbmJsMGVtMg==

Shawn Johnwrote:

Not sure why it dumped it? It did work when I posted it. One more try…

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4NzOpKMnxJ/?igsh=MXJuMWZnbmJsMGVtMg==

I wasn't being sarcastic. Your link worked for me. It was really helpful, along with the other ones that people shared

Shawn Johnwrote:

You need IG to view this, but tucks today. Total trash. IG LINK update: that link now brings me to something totally different. Not sure what changed.

We will be up there this weekend, likely Sunday. We expect nothing climbable and mostly an exploratory mission. We planned to do the best we could with Pinnacle and Odell’s, but shifted our expectations to central if we are lucky. And that’s very optimistic given possible avvy conditions. 

Thanks for the link. That looks horrendous and I’m 100% not going up…

Spent the night up there last night. Woke up to over a foot of wet snow and packed up and walked back down without even considering taking a look. All the same trash ice was there with the same spring hazards, but now with the benefit of 12” of nearly guaranteed avalanche hazard.

Passed this on the way out and was 0% shocked.

Also this in tucks 

https://www.instagram.com/stories/mwacenter/3320800272816039037?utm_source=ig_story_item_share&igsh=cDJvZnh4YjF3bjFh

Passed no less than 2 dozen skiers headed up. 

We climbed odells on saturady 3/9.  Snow was good and firm, not undermined.  We did the right side flow, which had a bit of a rotten shell, but good ice underneath for screws.  

Saturday night was a lot of snow, so im sure things are a bit different now.  did not get a look at the ice in pinnacle, but im sure its still doing ok.