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Ice avalanche Mt Sherman, lake city.
  The low temp was around 5 degrees Fahrenheit, with the temperature at the car @ 9am was 12 degrees. The forecast for Lake City was predicted to be in the upper 30s with clear, sunny skies. The snowpack measured 2- 3 feet, showing no signs of cracking or whumpfing, although there was some post holing on the boot pack. CAIC forecast was moderate below tree line and considerable above tree line. We stayed below tree line and saw no signs of avalanche instability. The incident happened around 12:50 pm on the 4th pitch, while nearing the top. The first three pitches were typical for Sherman, with good conditions and ice ranging from plastic to dinner plates. Since the 4th pitch is rated W2, I was placing gear every 25 feet as a precaution. Just before the incident, I had securely set a 16cm screw about 4 feet below a bulge transition. I was climbing with alternate tool positions to move efficiently through easier sections. As I swung my right tool, it dinner plated so I swung again in a bomber placement, I moved up and swung my left tool and the wall in front of me suddenly collapsed, releasing 100’s of gallons of water and large sheets of ice (plywood sized -1”-8” thick). My left arm blew and the ice sheets spun and barn doored my body position. The sheets of ice hammered my right arm and legs, making my feet sheared off. I some how kept my grip and didn’t take a lead fall. Then, I desperate swung with my left tool, sinking it to the hilt. As I looked down to see a massive sheet of ice and water cascading down the climb. After ensuring my belayer was unharmed, I climbed to a safer spot on the staunchwall, about 2 feet higher, where I could rest and collect myself. I anchored in securely and belayed my partner up without further incident. We rappelled down without encountering any other issues. The ice dam release / ice avalanche was approximately 40 feet wide and 5 feet tall elipse shape with the ice Staunchwall ranging from 1” to 8” inches thick. I estimate there were few 100 gallons of water involved, and the deposition zone measured approximately 150 ft by 50 ft, roughly equivalent to a D1 size avalanche with an R1 rating mostly ice, snow and water.
https://youtube.com/shorts/elc06Jak-hs?feature=shared Picture of 4Th pitch  Crown blue, orange- route |
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Wow, that’s amazing. Glad you and your belayer are both ok! |
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Educated report. Your observations, awareness, and working knowledge of snow is a good lesson for all who venture about in the winter. And good example placing somewhat regular pro, despite the ease of the pitch. If you had gotten wiped off the climb, how would your fall have come out? Scary prospect, heavy sharp ice and you and crampons/tools tumbling down together. Did you get soaked?! Strong work, and lucky trails! |
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The deluge I received was soaking, my shells took most of the moisture and flash froze. My internal layer were damp. I was unable to unzip my zipper until I warmed up, after rappelling down, had to use my ice tool to untie my figure 8, and took a while to unclip the buckles from my pack. Everything on me was frozen including carabiner gates. The temp was probably in the teens. At the time of the collapse, I was around 175 ft up and I would have fallen 10-15 ft with rope stretch? Maybe more. The initial fall would have be clean but the landing, would not have been clean, landing on a 70-80 degree slope. I did receive minor bruising, far amount of swelling and some skin tears to my lower quads / knees and shins and right arm. Nothing a little vitamin I can’t take care of.
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Nice helmet! They dont make em like that anymore |
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Something to consider... Although unrelated to this incident the Sherman climb (a favorite of mine) is heavily threatened by avalanche danger from above in nearly every aspect thanks to the bowl above the climb. Staying "below tree line" has little to no relevance when all of the terrain above you is very much threatened. Note the cone of debris under the first pitch. |
