Easy climbing near Oregon/California Border

Hey I’m from socal and came up to Gasquet for the week with some friends who don’t normally climb but are down to try it out for a day, I brought up sport and bouldering gear and was hoping to get some beta on where would be fun to take a small group single pitch climbing or an area with a variety of easier boulder problems I could throw them on. I feel confident up to 5.9 so was planning on sticking to stuff either at the easier end of that grade or below it since I’m mainly looking to show them a cool area and get on some rock. Terra Nova looks cool and isn’t too far of a drive with a solid amount of easy climbs so I’m leaning towards that but would love some info from locals on other options worth checking out that is a bit closer. I was also wondering what the ethic is with climbing in the area in general during a light rain/after it has been raining since it doesn’t seem like the sun will come out while I’m here and where I normally go climbing down in socal we avoid the rain like the plague in general but the sandstone at Stoney point and malibu creek needs time to dry out and wasn’t sure if its the same up here which is pushing me away from promontory which is super close and also looks stunning. 

And if we do end up going to Terra Nova is there a store in shady cove or in the area where we could rent shoes for them? I’ve got some extra pairs with me but they might be a size too big so worst case scenario they can wear thicker socks but would be nice to have the option if they end up feeling like clown shoes on them. 

If you’re in gasquet, I would stick to the limestone or sandstone(I mean half the crags get wet twice a day) on the coast and surroundings, one it’s absolutely stunning and closer. Two it’s a little more conducive to climbing after a rain.You honestly might have a better shot for shoes in Arcata. Really the only option for shoes since there aren’t rentals near Terra Nova would be pick up a cheap pair at get n gear, a gear resale place in Ashland. (SOU the college in Ashland might rent to non students but I’m pretty sure they’re on break) I’ve been out in the desert so I’m not super up to date on the local snow conditions but the road to Terra Nova holds snow surprisingly/annoyingly well. Evan Wisheropp is a much better resource to reach out to for coast climbing, he’s pretty responsive on here or instagram. Also you should pick up his guidebook it’s very well done and can pretty much answer almost all these questions.

Dylan Easterlingwrote:

If you’re in gasquet, I would stick to the limestone or sandstone(I mean half the crags get wet twice a day) on the coast and surroundings, one it’s absolutely stunning and closer. Two it’s a little more conducive to climbing after a rain.You honestly might have a better shot for shoes in Arcata. Really the only option for shoes since there aren’t rentals near Terra Nova would be pick up a cheap pair at get n gear, a gear resale place in Ashland. (SOU the college in Ashland might rent to non students but I’m pretty sure they’re on break) I’ve been out in the desert so I’m not super up to date on the local snow conditions but the road to Terra Nova holds snow surprisingly/annoyingly well. Evan Wisheropp is a much better resource to reach out to for coast climbing, he’s pretty responsive on here or instagram. Also you should pick up his guidebook it’s very well done and can pretty much answer almost all these questions.

Awesome thanks for the info, I’ll reach out to Evan. Luckily the shoes seem to fit them well enough for a single day of climbing and their reaction to driving 2+ hours wasn’t great so I’lll look more into the coastal climbing as it does look beautiful. 

No offense to Dylan; I would be shocked if Terra Nova has any snow considering the low amount of snow in general on the west coast (go check the Mt Ashland webcam, there’s only a heavy dusting right now). Folks were climbing out there as recently as 3 days ago, and TN is famously above 3,000 feet so gets lots of sunny days thanks to the cloud/weather inversion.

Anyway, no need to share more info than that since OP said friends don’t want to drive 2+ hrs to TN; makes sense.

OP, I recommend hitting up Lost Rocks at the mouth of the Klamath River. Plenty of boulders to play around on without being too focused on grades - just enjoy the movement.

Promontory is an amazing spot but limited at <=5.9.

Hope yall find some rock; feel free to email me on here with any questions. 

J Pwrote:

No offense to Dylan; I would be shocked if Terra Nova has any snow considering the low amount of snow in general on the west coast (go check the Mt Ashland webcam, there’s only a heavy dusting right now). Folks were climbing out there as recently as 3 days ago, and TN is famously above 3,000 feet so gets lots of sunny days thanks to the cloud/weather inversion.

Anyway, no need to share more info than that since OP said friends don’t want to drive 2+ hrs to TN; makes sense.

OP, I recommend hitting up Lost Rocks at the mouth of the Klamath River. Plenty of boulders to play around on without being too focused on grades - just enjoy the movement.

Promontory is an amazing spot but limited at <=5.9.

Hope yall find some rock; feel free to email me on here with any questions. 

Thanks for the info unfortunately didn’t end up doing any climbing because of the rain but I may stop at the lost rocks on my way home tomorrow. Definitely want to come back up here for the sights and check out the climbing during the summer. Ended up reaching out to Evan on instagram who gave me some more to look into for the next time I’m up here and where to get his guidebook which I’m planning on getting tomorrow too.