Joshua Sport Circuit / Partners

Hi all,

Sport climbing in J has always been elusive to me for the obvious reasons we all know. While I am conducting my own research per the guidebook etc, I thought I would inquire with the forum:

Does anybody have insight into some quality vertical to overhanging sport in J tree? Preferably 5.10-5.12, Height doesn't really matter, and I understand that bolting can vary. I am not particularly seeking X rated experiences, or EBGB style slab sport, but moreso just good ol' try hard sport climbing that is somewhat reasonably bolteed in various locations I may be unaware of. Not to say I won't seek pucker factor here and there, but I already know plenty of those around the park :)

Also, looking for bouldering partners (V5-V8) and Sport/TR lap partners 5.10-5.12! Safe, all gear, pads, stoke, gri gri. 

There are definitely a plethora of great and safe sport routes, some of which are quite well known, while others are not so much. I'll just throw out a few crags and routes that I am aware of that have sparked some facet of joy at some point in my climbing career. 

• Firstly, while most of the routes are a little under the grade range, I think Sleepy Hallow provides an excellent sport crag for beginners and intermediates. It's got some genuinely good 5.9s to 5.10c if I'm not mistaken. Most routes are on the shorter side, but they're all pretty steep and safe for the grades they hold. 
• Siberia is an excellent sport climbing venue, perhaps one of the best for the 5.9-5.10b that I can recall. Worthwhile stop for any climber. 
• The left side of Lost Horse wall has gotten some recent attention in the last few years. Bob Gaines has established some wonderful and safe routes up there, LA Woman being exceptional and definitely on the easier side of 5.11a. 
• I recall the Solarium having some wonderful bolted slab routes from 5.7 to low 5.11 which are excellent as well. 
• Bebop Tango in conjunction with the 5.11a route Runaway are wonderful and close together and are completely different styles. Tic Tic Boom and Tonic Boom are also excellent 5.12 routes that may require some gear, but they're great routes as well. 
• Sticking around hidden valley, you can't exclude Satanic Mechanic 5.12b and Desert Shield 5.13b as sport routes that frequently get done in the park. 
• The Cow Rock is kinda slept on too, as Udder Chaos 5.10c, Prime Directive 5.13a and Prime Real Estate 5.12c/d don't see too many ascents for how good of routes they are. 
• If you climb on gear and haven't done Coarse and Buggy 5.11a, climb that rig then hop on the two fantastic routes to the right: Rots o' Rocks, 5.12c and The Sowsuckle 5.12a (Very safe).
• Saddle Rocks is worth looking at as well, Where Have all the Cowboys Gone 5.10d is a classic mixed multipitch route, Space Mountain at 5.10b is wonderful, as well as the famed Iconoclast at (so I've been told) easy 5.13a. 
• If you're looking for a great concentration of harder than 5.12 routes, then the Ivory Tower and the Snake Pit are the best spots to be.
• And these are just some random routes off the top of my head which I'd highly recommend: Field and Stream 5.10c, Loose Lady 5.10a, Papa Woosley 5.10b, Chalk Up Another One 5.10a, Alf's Arete 5.11a, Boulderado 5.11a, Black Jack 5.11a, Split Personality 5.11d, Ostery Bar 5.11b, Gumshoe 5.11a, Rap Bolters are Weak 5.12a, Ionic Strength 5.12a,  Bikini Whale 5.12b++, Number Two 5.12b, Father Figure 5.12d,  

Orion Mariniwrote:

Nice write up dude! Super concise and you got quite a few on there I forgot about when sending Casey recs.

Cactus flower mixed .11b/c? And Jane's addiction .11 b/c in hall of horrors area.  

Great list Orion Marini. 

The Bachar Top Rope Wall (backside of The East Face of the Peyote Cracks) has a great concentration of hard sport routes. Apartheid is particularly good.

Todd Gordon's Sport Climbing Guide is an invaluable resource.

Nice list Orion. Here's a couple more:

At Indian Cove: Sean Penn (11a), Monaco (11d), Pet or Meat (10d), and Casino Royal (11a)

On Reggie Dome: Fresh Squeezed (10a), and The Mole (11a)

If you're at the Lost Horse Area for LA Woman, also check out Inside Out (11a) and Disco Lemonade (10c).

If you're in the Echo Rock/Little Hunk/Snickers area: The Paw (10c), Physical Graffiti (11a) and Joyride (11c).

And nearby are Sweet Ginger (11b), Black Hills Gold (10c) and Texas Tea (11d).

And also, you might like Coco Puff (10b or 11b Direct Start), Ambush (11a), The Balcony (11b), and Black and Blue (11d)

Orion Mariniwrote:

• Number Two 5.12b

Use your running shoes for both the approach and the route!

Bob Gaineswrote:

 and Black and Blue (11d)

Bob you don't know how happy this makes me ;)

This is incredible. Thank you all for this mega list. Should be enough to keep a guy busy for the season. It goes without saying, thank you to all of you legends for the time over the years and decades you have put into this special place!! 

Above and beyond Orion. Thank you my friend. This list is mega!!!

Orion Mariniwrote:

There are definitely a plethora of great and safe sport routes, some of which are quite well known, while others are not so much. I'll just throw out a few crags and routes that I am aware of that have sparked some facet of joy at some point in my climbing career. 

• Firstly, while most of the routes are a little under the grade range, I think Sleepy Hallow provides an excellent sport crag for beginners and intermediates. It's got some genuinely good 5.9s to 5.10c if I'm not mistaken. Most routes are on the shorter side, but they're all pretty steep and safe for the grades they hold. 
• Siberia is an excellent sport climbing venue, perhaps one of the best for the 5.9-5.10b that I can recall. Worthwhile stop for any climber. 
• The left side of Lost Horse wall has gotten some recent attention in the last few years. Bob Gaines has established some wonderful and safe routes up there, LA Woman being exceptional and definitely on the easier side of 5.11a. 
• I recall the Solarium having some wonderful bolted slab routes from 5.7 to low 5.11 which are excellent as well. 
• Bebop Tango in conjunction with the 5.11a route Runaway are wonderful and close together and are completely different styles. Tic Tic Boom and Tonic Boom are also excellent 5.12 routes that may require some gear, but they're great routes as well. 
• Sticking around hidden valley, you can't exclude Satanic Mechanic 5.12b and Desert Shield 5.13b as sport routes that frequently get done in the park. 
• The Cow Rock is kinda slept on too, as Udder Chaos 5.10c, Prime Directive 5.13a and Prime Real Estate 5.12c/d don't see too many ascents for how good of routes they are. 
• If you climb on gear and haven't done Coarse and Buggy 5.11a, climb that rig then hop on the two fantastic routes to the right: Rots o' Rocks, 5.12c and The Sowsuckle 5.12a (Very safe).
• Saddle Rocks is worth looking at as well, Where Have all the Cowboys Gone 5.10d is a classic mixed multipitch route, Space Mountain at 5.10b is wonderful, as well as the famed Iconoclast at (so I've been told) easy 5.13a. 
• If you're looking for a great concentration of harder than 5.12 routes, then the Ivory Tower and the Snake Pit are the best spots to be.
• And these are just some random routes off the top of my head which I'd highly recommend: Field and Stream 5.10c, Loose Lady 5.10a, Papa Woosley 5.10b, Chalk Up Another One 5.10a, Alf's Arete 5.11a, Boulderado 5.11a, Black Jack 5.11a, Split Personality 5.11d, Ostery Bar 5.11b, Gumshoe 5.11a, Rap Bolters are Weak 5.12a, Ionic Strength 5.12a,  Bikini Whale 5.12b++, Number Two 5.12b, Father Figure 5.12d,  

I will be in the JTREE area January through March, and looking fo climbing partners, if anyone needs a reliable partner hit me up 6176401110