Alfifi for the second/follower?
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Obligatory noob disclaimer. Absolutely loving the alfifi in my limited aid practice so far. Do teams typically share 1 alfifi and take the time to transfer it to the leader at each belay or does each person go up with their own (could see this being especially useful on overhung terrain where the second might need to re-aid through a section). Obviously pros and cons to both options, but curious what others recommend. Thanks in advance! |
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Fifi is usually personal gear. Whatever one uses for leading should just stay on the harness. I wouldn’t want to switch back and forth all day. |
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Our team finds them helpful for leading and following/cleaning gear. Each member having one is useful. +1 to not taking it off to transfer it back and forth every pitch. |
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Having two is nice in case the follower has to re-lead a traverse to clean it. Can do it without one of course but it makes things go faster. |
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I wouldn't want to have to bother with passing "personal kit"--fifis, daisies, ladders, etc.--back and forth at belays on a regular basis. Maybe if there were only a couple aid pitches and you were mostly freeing, but for a primarily aid climb, I'd have each team member with their own setup. |
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Thanks for the advice/input everyone! – sounds like bringing one each is the move |
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Yup, it’s part of your personal kit. |
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I realise I'm going against the tide here, but if you don't climb stuff that requires an adjustable fifi very often I think sharing is fine. Maybe it's the perspective of not living in America, but the only time I'm going to use an adjustable fifi is when I go to Yosemite, and I'm probably going to go with the same friends I went with before - we've got a couple of adjustable fifi's between us, so one per wall party. Obviously it's better if the leader has it than the second. Typically I'd rather lead in blocks so swapping the adjustable fifi over once or twice a day is hardly arduous. They're kind of expensive and to me doesn't seem worth buying another specifically for having to use while seconding and which is just going to live in a box in the loft most of it's life. Edit to add: In solidarity with the op I confess that I am also a noob. |
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Fell Overwrote: I agree with you. Especially the part about leading in blocks and the thoughts about how often the piece of equipment will realistically be used. My opinion here: swapping leads is really inefficient and block leading would be much better and would make giving away the fifi much less a big deal. |
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Alex Fletcherwrote: You can certainly share an Alfifi.. and the piece is so valuable on lead that if 2 climbers show up with just 1 Alfifi it’s probably a good idea to share it.. but why not buy one? And each climber have their own.. $60 for the A3 and it goes to support Skot in his quest to make the most bad ass wall kit in the world.. plus there are many uses for the second and it’s the best piece for positioning at belays.. and no risk of dropping it at a hand-off (Sorry to derail the thread) But I’ll have to disagree on Block Leading being the most efficient- if we are talking about traditional multi day big walls.. blocks either require the leader to haul, and then immediately lead the next pitch(tired), or pull the bag off the low anchor and then leave it, while they short-fix the next pitch, and the second has to haul the bag without someone below to free a stuck bag.. this can leave the leader out of rope on his short fix while his belayer Faffs around. Blocks also complicate anchors as the rope has to be untied and retied.. which is not that complicated, unless you’re new.. if you’re new I suggest going old school and swinging leads.. it makes a lot of sense- I mean the second shows up at the anchor with most the rack on his slings anyway.. IAD’s and Quicker/Lighter ascents with more experienced parties- yep! Block it! |
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Ain't no one gettin' their hands on mah Alfifi! |
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A personal Fifi. Isn’t that a prison thing? Haha. |
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Skot Richardswrote: From the glorious halls of Urban Dictionary, I bring you my best contribution to Mountain Project so far: "Prevalent within death row inmates, a hands-free masturbation device made up of a dirty old sock, vaseline (or toothpaste, if not available) a toilet paper tube (if available), wedged firmly between a matress. "Hey boy. Bend over. I'm 'bout to jack off with your asshole" Also, I love my alfifi - thanks Skot! |
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Cosmic Hotdogwrote: He shoots and scores!!! Well done sir. |




