BD#7 to borrow for a day in Bishop

Hi folks

We are traveling from the UK. 

We'd like to climb in Pine Creek, specifically Pratt's Crack. We have a bunch of 5 and 6 cams and an 8. But not a number 7. 

Is anyone willing to either lend one for the day, or come and climb the route with us and bring their 7? 

Looks like Tuesday and Wednesday the weather will work but after that a bit cold. 

Thanks for reading.

Conor

You don't need it.  There is other normal sized pro available in the crack and on the wall behind you.  The 5 and 6 stuff is way too small anyway.  If you are really scared go cut a log at 10.25" and sling it.  It will fit right where you might need it.

^^^

He's right. I led it using gear from surprisingly small to one five inch piece and didn't feel run out. Lots of options other than the main crack.

To add… you guys are Brits!  Big falls, shitty pro, tight Levis, and pints afterward.  The thing is like 5.8 (hvs?) if you keep your wits about you.  It will be no problem.  Enjoy.

Thanks for the info Russ and Brad.

All the best

  Conor

Here's a fun thread from a while back:

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/120936877/pratts-crack-ruminations

If you want to recreate the FA experience, get hammered the night before then dramatically yell "Stop the Car!" once you spot it in the canyon. She's a beauty!

I led this with a big cam (a Merlin #8) a number of years ago and honestly it was lame. You push the cam the whole way so you might as well be top roping. What's the point of leading if you are always on a piece of gear?

I went back a year later and led it on mostly small gear as others above have suggested, way more fun and memorable. Have at it with a normal rack, its doable and you will enjoy the experience a whole lot more anyway.

Lest you think Russ is kidding about using wood logs for protection, here is his 8.5 in log with custom Fish bartacking that I fleeced off the top of Pratt’s Crack. (Happy to mail it to ya Russ, keep keepinit real !!) 

5 and 6 cams are definitely not too small. You can place a 5 down low and bump it before placing a 6 and bumping that for awhile. Eventually a 6 isn't wide enough and at that point either run it out until it's 6 time again (helps to have 2) or use a blue big bro in that widest section or a 7. 

You definitely don't need a 7. I would say a 5 and 6 (ideally double 6) is helpful if you're not comfortable with off-width. With that said, you can place deep in the crack and pretty much the entire climb is featured on the face and wall behind you so as far as OW goes, this isn't a bad 5.9 at all, just longggg. 

Pete Clarkwrote:

Lest you think Russ is kidding about using wood logs for protection, here is his 8.5 in log with custom Fish bartacking that I fleeced off the top of Pratt’s Crack. (Happy to mail it to ya Russ, keep keepinit real !!) 

hahaha... yes sir-ee!  I thought Josh Huckaby pinched that thing?  It only lasted about a day.   I beat one of the logs in with the other log and they were bomber!  I went out there with Bill McChesney as he was doing a photo shoot for some new Patagonia OffWidth pants or something, and they wanted pics.  He took a bunch of pics, but none of them turned out due to operator error.  Those pants sucked too as the waist button came off pretty much right away.  The logs were cool though.  I think they came from a tree out front of Marty Lewis' house that I cut down for him... black locust?