Good Options For Medium Duty Trad/Multipitch Harness?

Eric Marxwrote:

Honestly, the Black Diamond Momentum is unbeatable. It's cheap, durable, comfy, has nice square loops for gear organization, and if you're intelligent with gear you can rock a triple rack on it and still have room to clip your shoes in. I've climbed tens of thousands of feet all over the country and always find myself back with the classic Momentum whenever I go to change. 

Agreed.  I think my next harness will be a BD Momentum with a bit a cord to add a rear gear loop.

Haven’t read the other replies but the misty mountain Cadillac has suited me well for these applications. Bunch of gear loops, wide and comfy hop belt, still pretty damn light 

If you are going to get the momentum and add some cord for a 5th gear loop, it’s relevant to consider the Zone. A bit more expensive, but a pretty slick harness. Arguably more comfortable that the momentum due to the “fusion comfort” technology, and has been pretty durable from my experience. But if you want a cheap harness to thrash in an offwidth, then yeah, go with the Momentum or spend an extra 15 bucks and get the solution, which is essentially the same but more comfortable “fusion comfort”.

I considered the BD Solution guide (not to be confused with the regular Solution) as the best medium weight trad climbing harness, but alas it got discontinued by BD. A real shame, it was comfortable (wider legs and waist bands), durable due to the special fabric, and had slightly larger front gear loops than the average BD harness, along with a 5th gear loop.

Aside from aid climbers and gumbies, who actually needs more than 4 moderately sized gear loops and a little something to clip shoes and a water bottle on the back? I have owned a MM caddy and other burly boys, and after switching to an edelrid ace and bd solution guide, I have never missed the extra loops and space

I just bought the wild country session harness and am enjoying it for the singles a multi. Very comfy leg loops. Alsp quite affordable. Much comfier than the BD Solution or guide Harness. Petzl adjama harness is not built for chimneying or OW. Soft ass gear loops.

Reading more reviews of all the suggested harnesses here, many said that BD Solution Guide is more durable than the normal Solution harness. Amazon is still selling them, so I decided to get one of those and get a Petzl Ring Open to use as a second belay loop. 

I'd really like to get a Cadillac but I'm spending a lot of money on my fixer upper house at the moment, so I decided the Cadillac will be my next harness since I won't be able to buy a Solution Guide in the future. 

Significant thanks to everyone who left recommendations, seems like there are lots of good options out there!

John Clarkwrote:

Aside from aid climbers and gumbies, who actually needs more than 4 moderately sized gear loops and a little something to clip shoes and a water bottle on the back? I have owned a MM caddy and other burly boys, and after switching to an edelrid ace and bd solution guide, I have never missed the extra loops and space

I think five gear loops is the right amount. My dream harness would be a Metolius or Misty Mountain style harness with two belay loops, four square gear loops, and and a rear gear loop, and a haul loop. That's it. I have no idea what all those other loops are for (the extra ones on my BD Big Gun seem to just get in the way if you actually rack anything on them?) or why everyone hasn't moved to square gear loops.

I am known for taking way too much gear up everything, and I can easily fit a triple rack on even my normal BD Solution with a little double racking of cams, so I genuinely have zero idea what these extra loops are for.

Ricky Harlinewrote:

Reading more reviews of all the suggested harnesses here, many said that BD Solution Guide is more durable than the normal Solution harness. Amazon is still selling them, so I decided to get one of those and get a Petzl Ring Open to use as a second belay loop. 

Do a mod on the tie in loops, cover them in plastic, it will significantly extend the life of the harness.

For whatever reason the tie in loops (especially the top one) likes to wear out prematurely in chimneys 

that guy named sebwrote:

Do a mod on the tie in loops, cover them in plastic, it will significantly extend the life of the harness.

For whatever reason the tie in loops (especially the top one) likes to wear out prematurely in chimneys 

Appreciate, you, Seb. This place kinda rocks sometimes. =)

Any advice as to how I might go about doing this? I like to consider myself a resourceful guy but I'm having a hard time imagining how to go about doing this.

I use a Metolius Safe Tech- just the standard and I really love it for a few reasons- 4 bomber (rated) gear loops. Yes they're rated to 10K. I used a oval carabiner to connect the leg strap loops for a 5th rear loop.   Its super robust and surprisingly comfortable for hanging and wearing.  Its not a perfect harness for everything, but it holds gear well and has been super durable for me.  Basically anything is rated on the harness, and I love being able to tie off a 3rd hand to the side, or safety off / to something using any loop if I need to.  

Throwing my vote in here for dmm renegade. Comfy, gear loops a’plenty for all your obsessive racking intricacies. I’ve been abusing it up for several seasons now, and it’s showing no concerning signs of wear. Big fan

I personally like the arcteryx 395a harness. Big gear loops, packs down small, and okay for a reasonable amount of hanging belays. Downside is they tend to wear out after a couple of seasons and pricey!

Ricky Harlinewrote:

Appreciate, you, Seb. This place kinda rocks sometimes. =)

Any advice as to how I might go about doing this? I like to consider myself a resourceful guy but I'm having a hard time imagining how to go about doing this.

There are a lot of ways to do it, I've been meaning to 3D print a cover for both at some point. 

You can buy celastic from amazon which would work well, putty epoxy is another option or go for kydex which is pretty difficult to work with but would lead to great results. The sky is really the limit, you could even go for self sealing hose pipe wrap. 

Pick which ever one appeals to you. Generally the bigger pain in the ass it is to do it at first the better it'll hold up. 

Ricky Harlinewrote:

Appreciate, you, Seb. This place kinda rocks sometimes. =)

Any advice as to how I might go about doing this? I like to consider myself a resourceful guy but I'm having a hard time imagining how to go about doing this.

Spiral cable sleeve: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-3-8-in.-x-10-ft.-black-wire-spiral-tubing-86135/12066536-p

Find some about the same diameter as your gear loops, cut to length, and fasten the ends with electrical tape, probably the easiest way.

Sam Schwinghammerwrote:

Spiral cable sleeve: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-3-8-in.-x-10-ft.-black-wire-spiral-tubing-86135/12066536-p

Find some about the same diameter as your gear loops, cut to length, and fasten the ends with electrical tape, probably the easiest way.

I have tried rolling plastic round tie in points but I have found the rope and belay loop works it's way into any potential gaps.

Not saying this is the same thing but I find gappy solutions to have their limits. It'd probably work well enough well for the top tie in loop for the abrasion issue. 

I am a fan of the misty mountain Cadillac. But that’s partly because I’m a mutant. I had to have mine custom-made. Extra small waist band, small leg loops, low rise not womans cut. They asked me if I wanted a seventh gear loop. I had to laugh. Where are you going to put a seventh gear loop on an extra small waistband. 

Echoing comments above. The solution guide is a different harness entirely from the solution, and you won't be disappointed with it.

Source: I have too many harnesses.

Dmm renegade has plenty of loops and a slide type belt making it ultra adjustable.  I use it for big trad days and ice climbing.