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Good bolt-protected sport climbing crags in Eastern Sierras? (non-trad)

Original Post
Jan C Accornero · · Puerto Rico · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 0

Hello! My gf and I are visiting from Puerto Rico and we are used to sport climbing on well bolt-protected routes (meaning we don't use trad gear, no long runouts and the route ends in two anchors where we can rappel down). Are there such crags anywhere in the Eastern Sierras (south up to mono lake)?

So far, It seems that New Jack City will be our first stop. Looking for something up north near mammoth maybe? 

Thanks!

Pugnacious Slab · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 371

Owen's River Gorge is what you're looking for

2 Leg Greg ! · · Boulder · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 16

Owens river gorge is massive, 

Pine creek canyon

Alabama hills

All are incredible! Feel free to hit mw up for more details about any of the crags, and I might even PM you for some PR beta, I’ll be there in November! 

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Owens River Gorge is exactly what you are looking for. Great sport climbing. Well bolted. Quick-clip mussy hook anchors. Especially good for the 5.10-5.11 range. Nice guidebook. Great weather this time of year.

ORG safety PSA: make sure you tie a knot in the end of your rope for every pitch. Long pitches, many require a 70 or more to lower off.

Jan C Accornero · · Puerto Rico · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 0
Pugnacious Slabwrote:

Owen's River Gorge is what you're looking for

Thanks! I'll take a look :)

Jan C Accornero · · Puerto Rico · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 0
2 Leg Greg !wrote:

Owens river gorge is massive, 

Pine creek canyon

Alabama hills

All are incredible! Feel free to hit mw up for more details about any of the crags, and I might even PM you for some PR beta, I’ll be there in November! 

Sweet, thanks for all the recs! I'll check them out. Awesome, feel free to hit me up! There are many fun crags here with beautiful views :)

Cosmic Hotdog · · California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 459

Agree with what's been posted here but I'd skip Alabama Hills (in lone pine, CA).  The rock quality is very crumbly and flakey and it's just dogshit quality compared to Owens River Gorge and Pine Creek (near Bishop, CA)

Matt Schilowitz · · California · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 411

Agree with Owens River Gorge as a first choice! Better than New Jack City and much better than Alabama Hills for quality of the climbing and variety of routes. Pine Creek is another great recommendation. One crag that hasn’t been mentioned yet is Clark Canyon near Mammoth. Good bolted routes with 2 bolt anchors. When will you be visiting? That will dictate some of what is accessible. Also what grades are you looking for?

If you’re coming to the Eastern Sierra, it’s a good idea to familiarize yourself with mussy hook anchors. Super user friendly anchors found all over the place here make lowering fast and safe from many routes.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

When you’re driving from NJC going to the ORG and you want a chill place to camp for free and enjoy the forest check this out.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/117102451/el-pescador

Fish Creek is fun and quiet 

Ben Corbett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 25

There's some beautiful knobby sport in Tuolumne and fun hard stuff at Tioga Cliff.

Corey Bringas · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 65
Ben Corbettwrote:

There's some beautiful knobby sport in Tuolumne and fun hard stuff at Tioga Cliff.

I wouldn't consider Tuolumne "good bolt-protected" climbs. I love the place, but I think this guy won't...

Ben Corbett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 25
Corey Bringaswrote:

I wouldn't consider Tuolumne "good bolt-protected" climbs. I love the place, but I think this guy won't...

I was thinking of the West Face of East Cottage Dome. It only has a dozen routes but they're all fun and well protected (or so I thought, a few get PG13 on MP). Not comparable to Pine Creek or the ORG or even Tioga Cliff, but the in my opinion it's one of the most beautiful crags in the area. Especially for someone who's never been to Tuolumne before it's worth the drive.

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105865957/west-face

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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