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Old Gear personal reslinging

Original Post
Bailey Nicholson · · Michigan/Virginia · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 23

Whats the collective thoughts on personally reslinging cams with webbing in a water knot or hexes/nuts with accessory cord? I have some older gear that could use some new love and am considering do this instead of sending it in.  I have read mixed things online and can't think of a compelling strength based reason? 

slo ta · · ABQ · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 257

Using regular chord or webbing on something like a C4 could create a higher concentration of force in a single spot in the thumb loop after repeated falls, as is my understanding. This could kink the internal wire, which could theoretically have an impact on strength. How this actually plays out in practice, I have no idea.

Bailey Nicholson · · Michigan/Virginia · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 23

Just to clarify j was wondering about webbing for ghe cams and then cord for the hexes. 

F r i t z · · North Mitten · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,190
Bailey Nicholsonwrote:

Whats the collective thoughts on personally reslinging cams with webbing in a water knot or hexes/nuts with accessory cord? I have some older gear that could use some new love and am considering do this instead of sending it in.  I have read mixed things online and can't think of a compelling strength based reason? 

What pieces are you reslinging? Just be sure to tie an appropriate tail on the water knot and load it heavily; those can work themselves loose in slippery new nylon if they're not yarded on.

jay2718 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

For cams, try 5/8" supertape webbing, tied with a double fisherman's knot, with at least 1" tails, after being weighted with body weight. For hexes use some type of 5.5mm dynema/spectra etc. (not regular nylon cord) tied-off with a triple fisherman's knot, and decent tails.

slo ta · · ABQ · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 257

Here's what I was thinking of when I wrote my comment: https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_EU/stories/experience-story-qc-labreslinging-camalots-and-c3s/

It looks like even 11/16" webbing causes a loss of strength at around 30% in the thumb loop. Though if you're loading a cam with a 10+ kN fall, you might have more to worry about. I doubt there's much issue if the cams you're reslinging have a more rigid attachment point.

Bailey Nicholson · · Michigan/Virginia · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 23
slo tawrote:

Here's what I was thinking of when I wrote my comment: https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_EU/stories/experience-story-qc-labreslinging-camalots-and-c3s/

It looks like even 11/16" webbing causes a loss of strength at around 30% in the thumb loop. Though if you're loading a cam with a 10+ kN fall, you might have more to worry about. I doubt there's much issue if the cams you're reslinging have a more rigid attachment point.

Great Read thank you,  From what I understand the craziest F2 falls would be abt 9 KN so Im still over that, and most cams would have atleast a concern of pulling under such a massive load.  As for the concept even BD is okay with webbing tied with well dressed tails.  This will probably be suitable until I send off that massive reslinging order.  As well as being accepting of the original slings that are still there.  

See link for the key takeaways, cant get the image to upload. 

https://imgur.com/a/qVhBYqM

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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