Hey guys, it feels like bad form to do this but I started a channel several months ago to document a lot of the hard and scary routes in the gunks. There's a bunch of silent crushers around who regularly lead R or X rated 5.12s and I want to build the psyche and shed some light on the awesome community here. I'm particularly proud of this most recent video and we have plenty of archival footage of scary routes to tell stories about and uncountable new ones to check out too. The gunks really is a unique place for an almost lost style of hard trad. Many of the routes would translate into E7, E8, E9 range in English grades.
Headpoint Handbook:
Edit: if the community so decides i will relocate this post to the "not-awesome" videos thread as penance for my shameless self promotion.
P B
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Jun 23, 2023
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Jun 2019
· Points: 62
Hey guys, latest video about a little sandbagged testpiece in the gunks. It isn’t easy for me to promote my channel, yet I’m doing it here and elsewhere because I want to counter-program the YouTube algorithm a bit. I really want to tell down-to-earth, non-clickbait-y, non-overly-charismatic-and-annoying stories about the silent every day crushers in the gunks, real people with lives outside of climbing who have attained a certain level of hard trad climbing that anybody could aspire to. But in order to share these stories without “selling out”(which will certainly never happen anyway) and titling the video “Dangerous scary trad protected by A SINGLE RUSTY PIN?!? GROUNDFALL!!!” And then badgering you to like and subscribe, I have to pitch myself here haha. So that said, I again hope the community enjoys this quick peek into a route so sandbagged the grade could only be accurately corrected with a large chisel and a heavy hammer.
I think Henry Barber was just that good - the best in the world a bit. One comment - you said in video they rated 12a in 1973 (4?) when they did the FA. Were a,b,c,d designators in use there in the Gunks, then? I don't know, s'why I'm asking.
I'm not sure, I would assume they would have just given it 5.12 because letter grades didn't spread until the later 70s. I think the earlier(and current guides) had it at 12a. Another route famously graded 12a and now 12c(!) is To Have or Have Not in the gunks.