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Northwest face elephant buttress anchor

Original Post
Steven Gonzalez · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 11

Surely someone knows more about this anchor? One chain that disappears into the rock. 

Alex Fletcher · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2016 · Points: 252

Got a picture?

Tyler Harrell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 10

You mean the anchor on the south face? I would be interested in more info too, all I can tell you is it held my weight through a lower, jugging, and a rappel after I aided the route underneath it in a storm last november. The crack was filled with snow so I couldn't even see where the chain was going.

David Zawn · · Louisville, CO · Joined Aug 2020 · Points: 969

Here is a picture of what I believe is the current anchor (recent picture) of the the route "northwest face" (5.8) on elephant buttress. It's a grainy photo taken from far away, you'll see there's a rope on it as well (from a climber below cleaning gear on rappel). The route faces directly north. I'm not sure how the anchor is set up, if it's good or bad, etc since I was too far away to inspect. Don't want to post inaccurate info, hope this is helpful.

Steven Gonzalez · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 11

No pics, didn't bring my phone up unfortunately. That's the route David. You can see the chain I'm talking about peaking over the top of the rock two pillars over from the anchor you circled. I thought about backing it up with some tat but decided it'd be fine since I lowered off it a few years ago. It's definitely bomber I just haven't seen anything like it in the short time I've been climbing so made me pretty curious. 

Alex Fletcher · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2016 · Points: 252

Steven, if I may be so bold, I would stop referring to things as bomber while simultaneously questioning how they are attached. If you can’t tell exactly, then it ain’t bomber. Please don’t make a habit out of trusting anchors where there’s any doubt in mind. Leaving a backup is your life insurance policy and it’s pretty darn cheap compared to the alternative. 

Ivan G · · Berkeley · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

I remember there being some flakes on top you can use. There was a chain that disappeared into the dirt that I chose not to use.

tim · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 517

Bump

Mark Roth · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 14,122

The chain goes into concrete.  No idea who installed it or when or how strong it is. You can back it up with a sling over the rock.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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