New Eyesore Practice Anchors at Castle Rock (about to be chopped)

This week (Wednesday?) someone drilled practice anchors at head height in the middle of the Black Crack area at Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon. I assumed it was an uninformed guide that wanted a practice area for clients but a local said it was some guys practicing for "Yosemite change overs". Regardless, they are a total eyesore and Ned locals are pissed that they got placed. In an effort to stop a chop/redrill situation, I left a note on the anchors asking the drillers to have a discussion about where a better, more hidden location for practice anchors would be. 

If you know who drilled the anchors, please ask them to send an email through MP.com or give me a call (my number is on the note) so we can fix the eyesore that was created and find an appropriate area for practice anchors. 

That’s a shame someone would do that. Bump. 

Didn't you hear that we're cool with knuckleheads drilling holes for their personal convenience since there's already holes in the cliff?

Adam Brinkwrote:

This week (Wednesday?) someone drilled practice anchors at head height in the middle of the Black Crack area at Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon. I assumed it was an uninformed guide that wanted a practice area for clients but a local said it was some guys practicing for "Yosemite change overs". Regardless, they are a total eyesore and Ned locals are pissed that they got placed. In an effort to stop a chop/redrill situation, I left a note on the anchors asking the drillers to have a discussion about where a better, more hidden location for practice anchors would be. 

If you know who drilled the anchors, please ask them to send an email through MP.com or give me a call (my number is on the note) so we can fix the eyesore that was created and find an appropriate area for practice anchors. 

All bolts are “eye sores”.

Tradibanwrote:

All bolts are “eye sores”.

You’re preaching to the choir! 

Tradibanwrote:

All bolts are “eye sores”.

Gee, I missed the part where I stepped into a time machine and was transported back to the 80's...

John Byrneswrote:

Gee, I missed the part where I stepped into a time machine and was transported back to the 80's...

If only there were more gyms back then we could have contained the outbreak.

Tradibanwrote:

All bolts are “eye sores”.

A lot of things are considered 'eye sores' but we put up with it.  Maybe we should try and do something about them?  

John Byrneswrote:

Gee, I missed the part where I stepped into a time machine and was transported back to the 80's...

Tradi marches to the beat of his own drum. Unfortunately for all of us the one banging his drum is the ghost of Tom Higgins.

I'm impressed at how well you're handling this, Adam. Thank you for your firm but kind and gracious approach to the situation-- you're doing it exactly right. 

Bump for Adam’s thoughtful approach to finding a solution to this instead of just flaming whoever did it. There are many great places to put a practice anchor in for these purposes, I’m happy to make accessible suggestions that aren’t Castle Rock.

Stonebhikkuwrote:

Bump for Adam’s thoughtful approach to finding a solution to this instead of just flaming whoever did it. There are many great places to put a practice anchor in for these purposes, I’m happy to make accessible suggestions that aren’t Castle Rock.

I was going to say thee same thing.

Tradibanwrote:

All bolts are “eye sores”.

When you're run out 40', looking at a death fall, there's difficult climbing above, and there's a shiny bolt to clip it's one of the most beautiful things you'll ever see.

Gloweringwrote:

When you're run out 40', looking at a death fall, there's difficult climbing above, and there's a shiny bolt to clip it's one of the most beautiful things you'll ever see.

Tradi doesn't actually climb.  He just posts here.   

Totally inappropriate - thanks, Adam, for trying to remedy this.  I've asked a bunch of long-time local guides, and no one knows who installed those.  My guess is that it was either a new guide or a new climber to the area.  Or that guy who bolted the weird bolts at Nip and Tuck who runs rappelling courses!  

Yeah- poor choice. Suggestion: this spot might be more appropriate for on-the-ground practice anchors:  Just west of Sugarloaf Road

Super lame! Not the place for a practice anchor, please remove. 

So much history on Castle Rock it needs to be preserved.  

We will be properly removing the anchor and patching the holes most likely before this weekend.

Per BCC friend they were removed this morning , I’ll be by to confirm and make sure they got patched. 

Next you'll tell me there are bolts at The Sport Park in Boulder Canyon right next to perfect gear placements!

That's even closer to Ned than Castle Rock!

The BCC has responded to this issue. Thank you to everyone that reached out to let us know about the anchors. If you would like to read the BCC's response and learn about some areas that have already been established to provide on the ground learning, check out the BCC's blog.

Respecting Rules and Regulations Regarding Fixed Hardware

Thanks to everyone involved in taking care of this and for your calm and constructive tone in this thread and the BCC post.