Dudes 1st multi pitch @ the gunks and leading @ white horse ledge

And events leading to a little whipper on white horse around 31:20.  slab direct 5.7

Experienced thoughts?

kudos to him for not editing.

No idea who or what you are talking about.

But take that picture out of context and I’m not going to judge, I’ve done some janky shit when I run out of draws

P Bwrote:

No idea who or what you are talking about.

But take that picture out of context and I’m not going to judge, I’ve done some janky shit when I run out of draws

 Fair enough, just curious what experienced leaders see here - to learn.  Props to the guy for not editing vids.  Interesting to watch and be along for what seemed like some nervous rides.

Alec Baker wrote:

How dare he clip a cam to a bolt

and whip on it?

I’ve said or at least felt everything this guy said at one point or another. Looks like good experience, way to not give up! 

Lion Forestwrote:

and whip on it?

He whipped on it and it held his fall. That’s what matters at the end of the day 

I'm curious to read other responses here. My first thought was "huh, good on him to think to use the carabiner on the cam in a pinch." It might not have occurred to me - I probably would have f'd around to dig out a draw, and my outcome might have been worse as a result. 

Lion Forestwrote:

 

And events leading to a little whipper on white horse around 31:20.  slab direct 5.7

Experienced thoughts?

kudos to him for not editing.

Another YouTuber idiot. Why do you guys watch this stuff? Go outside.

i wouldve been a little upset if that was my gear.  could damage my cam sling or my rope.  could've easily taken that cam out of the system before climbing again

Mr Negativitywrote:

i wouldve been a little upset if that was my gear.  could damage my cam sling or my rope.  could've easily taken that cam out of the system before climbing again

MP paranoia reaches a new level.

Jesse Vanekwrote:

I'm curious to read other responses here. My first thought was "huh, good on him to think to use the carabiner on the cam in a pinch." It might not have occurred to me - I probably would have f'd around to dig out a draw, and my outcome might have been worse as a result. 

You can't be serious. Really?

Bold move climbing Whitehorse in the summer sun.

Marc801 Cwrote:

MP paranoia reaches a new level.

Is it paranoia?  A weighted rope with 180lb climber falling and rubbing real fast on the sling instead of fully on the carabiner....  It doesn't sound good to me.  I failed physics though so maybe I am being paranoid.

After skipping through the 4 mins of driving footage (Whitehorse vid intro), I gave up. It set the tone for me, for what I’m sure would’ve been a waste of time. 

Mr Negativitywrote:

Is it paranoia?  A weighted rope with 180lb climber falling and rubbing real fast on the sling instead of fully on the carabiner....  It doesn't sound good to me.  I failed physics though so maybe I am being paranoid.

Not paranoia.  the rope sliding over the cam sling could easily damage it.

Selling cause I’m upgrading my rack to quick draws… 

Marc801 Cwrote:

You can't be serious. Really?

Yes, I really am curious to hear what others think. 

Jesse Vanekwrote:

Yes, I really am curious to hear what others think. 

OK, but I was specifically referring to your comment: "It might not have occurred to me - I probably would have f'd around to dig out a draw, and my outcome might have been worse as a result."

It's just seems so obvious.

I only watched from the thirty minute mark on but that was some pretty exciting stuff. Slab is obviously not his forte. But I thought he showed good judgment in avoiding the big whipper. Live and learn.

"Whitehorse Ledge, Standard Route, 5.7+ crux" -- how does one find a 5.7+ crux on Standard Route, on which the hardest pitch is only 5.5?

David Gibbswrote:

"Whitehorse Ledge, Standard Route, 5.7+ crux" -- how does one find a 5.7+ crux on Standard Route, on which the hardest pitch is only 5.5?

There is a direct variation that gets a harder rating.