bd c4 0.4 replacement

Hello,

I just lost my bd c4 0.4 this weekend.  Haven't bought a new cam in a while so I'm not sure if any superior new tech came out.  Any recommendations?  I still got a yellow Totem in that range.

thanks.

I'd check out the BD Z4 line - I've really liked the flexible stem for these smaller sizes

https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/camalot-z4/

Cheers!

While it certainly isn't new tech, the yellow ultralight mastercam from Metolius is affordable, durable, and has a great reslinging/refurbish service available 

Yellow MC is a touch smaller than a 0.4, so you'll want to get the orange as well. 

I pretty much never leave the ground without an orange MC... money size right there.

You already own the best cam in that size.  The BD 0.4's are a tiny bit smaller than the totems though.

Wild country zeros are nice. Similar size, Narrower head. 

Z4 in 0.4 is a nice complement to yellow totem from my experience. 

Z4s are overhyped. If I chose one cam to hold my life it is the orange metolius 

mastercams under the Black size are fantastic, above that they’re a little flimsy on placements. I find they complement a BD rack really well tho.

z4s are top tier, theyre inexpensive (50-65$), they’re ultralight (3 grams < orange UL MC), they have a good bite, narrow head and impressive flexibility just like MC, but have a wider camming range (they’ll cover a yellow+orange MC). The soft metal will wear down a lot faster on Z4s but we’re talking dozens of solid falls to wear them out.

I have half MC/half BD. And found Mastercams to be significantly more durable. The larger depth of lobe ridges helps snag little edges better to prevent walking as well.

All in all totems are cool, but they’re overhyped unless you’re aid climbing. Both Mastercams and Z4s are perfect cams imo. 

thanks all.  I went with the yellow and orange mastercams since I already got the #00 and #0 mastercams.

edit: I thought I had a #1 but I don't! guess I have to buy one of those too at some point

Mr Negativitywrote:

thanks all.  I went with the yellow and orange mastercams since I already got the #00, #0 and #1 mastercams.

Now you have to get the #4 (Red) ULMC. It's my most used cam. It's in between the (BD .5) and (BD  .75) sizes. 

Garrett Weaverwrote:

Now you have to get the #4 (Red) ULMC. It's my most used cam. It's in between the (BD .5) and (BD  .75) sizes. 

Ok... just ordered it.  You convinced me.

Aiden Novawrote:

z4s are top tier, theyre inexpensive (50-65$), they’re ultralight (3 grams < orange UL MC), they have a good bite, narrow head and impressive flexibility just like MC, but have a wider camming range (they’ll cover a yellow+orange MC). The soft metal will wear down a lot faster on Z4s but we’re talking dozens of solid falls to wear them out.

Z4s cost 80 dollars now, and don’t really cover all of the yellow mastercam size. The yellow mastercam is in between .3 and .4, I think.

Sure they’re 80 if you buy from REI, or you can get 2nds for 65 from Wildy. Yellow master cam range is .62-.88in.

BD .3 is .48 - .88in

BD .4 is .6 - 1.09in

Interestingly a BD .5 covers both the range of a orange and red Mastercam.

Doesn’t mean they’re better or anything but it’s nice having the versatility. 

The .4 z4 is my most whipped piece of gear I own. Held a 40’ whipper, and just inspires confidence. Super narrow head fits just about anywhere and the flexible stem keeps it secure so it doesn’t grow legs and walk out. Also have the x4 in the same size, and its nearly as good, but the z4 is better. 

Aiden Novawrote:

Interestingly a BD .5 covers both the range of a orange and red Mastercam.

This may be what the charts say, but it isn't true in reality. I think maybe Metolius is very conservative with their published range, and BD is not. 

Brandon -

That’s interesting, I’d assume all companies to list conservatively. I’ll have to test that idea. Maybe they’re including passive placements for double axel? Have you actually measured? I use both and metolius definitely has a smaller range per cam 

Aiden Novawrote:

Brandon -

That’s interesting, I’d assume all companies to list conservatively. I’ll have to test that idea. Maybe they’re including passive placements for double axel? Have you actually measured? I use both and metolius definitely has a smaller range per cam 

They publish the the actual ranges on this page:

https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/cam-range-guide.html

The double axle Z4s don't quite cover 2 sizes, but they're close.

Hey Austin, 

Ya I got the numbers above from both companies websites. just the z4 .5 covers multiple in orange and red size. 

Met ranges get a little wider as size increase later but the only being exceptionally useful is the purple size it’s like a 2.5 cam really good for cups cracks. 

Aiden Novawrote:

Hey Austin, 

Ya I got the numbers above from both companies websites.

It doesn't seem like you actually clicked the link I gave.

You’re going off min and max range. Not very useful stats.