Looking for route info (Falcons Rib- Eagle Peak, SD)

Hey all- so about a month ago my friend and I got off route on rock jungle up at eagle peak. I believe we ended up on Falcons Rib. We ended up bailing after the second pitch was completed but I remember the start of pitch 3 looking stellar. 

Does anyone else have information about this route? would love to get back on it soon but was curious to hear anyone’s take on it.

Planning on getting on it again soon (would love to complete the journey).

-Buzz 

It’s been a while, I mostly remember the pitch starting off the right side Rock Jungle traverse ledge, about 15 to 20 ft left of the grassy recess that RJ climbs. The pitch of the ledge is easy 11, with good rock and interesting sections.

It’s possible to climb to that long traverse in one pitch by two different starts, but we put anchors half way on each to break them into two 80’ish pitches. There is a 5.11 pitch off the first belay anchor on the left hand start called Ivory Tower which tends to the left. Sounds like you were at the base of the Falcon’s Rib pitch, if you were on a big wide sloping ledge.

I think there is a fourth pitch on Falcon’s Rib that I don’t remember well, but it likely shares the belay atop the hollow flakes pitch on Rock Jungle, pitch 4 or 3 depending on if you link the first two. The last pitch of Southwest Face is the best way to top out - it’s the right hand and steeper of two choices.

Southwest Face is the best multi pitch in that zone.

Appreciate all the insight, Kevin. I absolutely love the routes you’ve put up at EP so it’s awesome hearing the insight directly from you.

I believe you are correct on where we were on Falcons Rib. P2 to P3, I think it was an 11a and the start was a smooth arete, went into some slabby corner, and then ended on an overhung section with huge blocks (anchors right above on a decent ledge).

The line above that one (possibly P3) looked like a bit of an overhung start that then eases up into a splitter crack). If I go back (and decide try this one again), I’ll take a bunch of pics at the start of each pitch.

Thanks again for the insight and I will also heed your advice and get on Southwest face sometime soon.

-Buzz

Thanks for acknowledging our “work” at Eagle Peak, Buzz. One of the best single pitches there is The West Buttress, 5.10b (?), on the skyline looking west from Lunch Rock at the start of Cruise Line. It’s a bit of a hike, and there’s no established trail, but it’s a phenomenal face pitch. You descend the gully on the east side of the little ridge that runs out from lunch rock, then it’s a level traverse until you’re under the buttress. Scramble up to the base, the route starts to the right of a long right facing corner, then crosses the arrete of it and climbs the face. There is a belay anchor below the final Headwall, but you can keep going if you’ve got the draws. All bolt protection.

The 3 pitch route to its left is good, but harder

 Hey sorry for the delay man....appreciate the insight on the West Buttress. I'm headed out there this Friday and would love to get on West Buttress before others.  I also attached a pic where I believe the West Buttress route may be??  It may be a bit tough to see but I made a black dotted line (Triangle looking thing).  Is this the general area?  

The first time I tried getting to Rock Jungle, we blew by the ledge that hugs the wall (to the left/west of lunch rock) and ended up way over to the west. Kinda where that big shadow is via the photo.  Being stubborn (instead of back-tracking), we decided to scramble up that gulley to get to the base of the cliffs and, while eventually getting their (maybe 40 meters to the left of Rock Jungle), we also saw a stashed leaf blower. Haha, odd thing to see out there.

Anyway, is the West Buttress route you are mentioning a single pitch or a 3 pitch route?  Was hoping to clarify the comment above. I'm thinking, if the West Buttress is single pitch, knock that out and then do the 3 pitch you had mentioned to the left of it.

Cheers

Buzz

Yo Buzz

Was the leaf blower in a cave under a giant boulder? A stihl? Probably mine, but it’s been there for years…

We call that shadowed recess the Wildlife Corridor, there are a few good single pitch routes in there, and it gets afternoon shade. It’s sketchy to traverse to the West Buttress from there, I had a plan to install a cable to pendulum on, but didn’t complete the effort.

The West Buttress route can be done as a 180’ pitch or as two pitches, the other route is 3 short pitches, 11c maybe. Pretty sure they’re both in the ACSD pocket guide, and I never got one, even tho I did a fair amount of work on it. Can’t remember the name of the left hand route, but your lines are right on. I know water’s a problem on the Main Wall after all this rain, but those routes should be dry. WB is one of the best moderate pitches out there, amazing grip tape stone covered with square cuts. Must be gorgeous out there, and Boulder Creek’s gotta be goin off!

Amazing day out at EP today. Flowers were out, birds were enjoying the light drifts, water was flowing, and ants were doing ant stuff.  Couldn't resist going back to Falcon's rib (got to hit West Buttress next time) to try and get the send.  Rock on Falcon's Rib was a bit wet (2nd pitch had some wet spots & 3rd pitch was WET).  

Being said, we made a pretty solid route by mixing Falcons, Rock Jungle, and Southwest....P1 & P2 of Falcons Rib (10d variation) and then into "the crack pitch" of Rock Jungle.  Never in my life have I jammed a crack with the rock this wet....but it seemed like a better option as opposed to the more difficult, somewhat slabby P3 (11a) of Falcons (WET). P4 & P5 of Southwest face.

Awesome way to mix up things while going up that area. 

And love that the leaf blower is still out there...the thing was looking dapper and still looked like it would fire up without issues.  Thanks for confirming all that info in regards to the photo...next time I'm out there, I'm planning to clean the trail up a bit too...foliage was definitely getting in on the trail with all the rain.  

-Buzz

Oh I also took a bunch of photos to help ID falcons rib a bit more....I'll try and add that to the EP page.

Cheers (happy Friday)

Hey guys, funny story today my friend and I actually ran into the same situation as you, Buzz. We were looking to climb Rock Jungle but ended up climbing Falcon’s Rib instead. We realized after P2 checking the ACSD guide I had on my phone. We decided to keep going and it’s a super awesome climb! I believe we climbed the direct route. I would love to set up a MP page for it if that’s ok. I feel like adding something between Rock Jungle and Southwest Face would be useful for anyone else looking around in that area.

I didn’t take any photos while on the route but I can definitely write up a description of each pitch. I saw Buzz had great photos of the the anchors before P2 and P3 which are the important indicators. Bolt line flowed naturally the rest of the way up.  

Not sure what the process is for adding new routes on MP but would love some guidance!