The BEST multi-pitch rappel anchor?

Austin Donisan wrote:

Have anybody ever seen a worn steel rappel anchor? I certainly haven't.

Yes. Sometimes you see one that has grooves worn in two places exactly opposite of one another. Not sure why this happens but I've seen it a few times. 

Jeremy Bauman wrote:

The one I like that isn't pictured, particularly for low-traffic routes is this one except with a quick link instead of a fixed link for the top bolt. Best of save-weight, money, etc, and still easily replaceable. My point is simply that we should make wear points easily replaceable when possible particularly when the cost of doing so is nill. 

I too prefer this setup (with quicklinks) because the bottom anchor point does not wear at the same rate at the ring on the top anchor point. 

Ricky Harline wrote:

Yes. Sometimes you see one that has grooves worn in two places exactly opposite of one another. Not sure why this happens but I've seen it a few times. 

On a multipitch rappel anchor? I'd be curious where, since even the most popular routes I've done show no signs of wear. I could see it happening on a desert tower, though.

Austin Donisan wrote:

Have anybody ever seen a worn steel rappel anchor? I certainly haven't.

Many many times

B, A, C, ..................................................................................................... D, in that order. 

B looks like it should have one less (or more) chain link though, so the rope goes left/right rather than front/back. 

Jeremy Bauman wrote:

Many many times

Please somebody provide a photo or at least a route. What you say is so different from my experience that I find it hard to believe.

Edit: That video shows hardware from single pitch climbs (that you lower through). Everybody has seen that and it's not what's being discussed here.

Austin Donisan wrote:

Please somebody provide a photo or at least a route. What you say is so different from my experience that I find it hard to believe.

I think we need to climb all the routes until we find it.

Worn Rappel Hardware 

How Not To video with pull/break tests of worn out rappel rings. 

Ricky Harline wrote:

Yes. Sometimes you see one that has grooves worn in two places exactly opposite of one another. Not sure why this happens but I've seen it a few times. 

Because the weld is not ground down to enable the ring to spin to a different location. Any wear is concentrated at the same point.

Alex Fletcher wrote:

Worn Rappel Hardware 

How Not To video with pull/break tests of worn out rappel rings. 

No horse in this race but that ring was from a single pitch route so also not what homeboy is referring to. Source: I sent it in. It was on Crack-a-Go-Go.

Kevin Heinrich wrote:

No horse in this race but that ring was from a single pitch route so also not what homeboy is referring to. Source: I sent it in. It was on Crack-a-Go-Go.

I recognized that ring immediately when I saw that video, thanks for replacing it. It was also rolled aluminum which will get trashed anywhere.

Jeremy Bauman wrote:

The one I like that isn't pictured, particularly for low-traffic routes is this one except with a quick link instead of a fixed link for the top bolt. Best of save-weight, money, etc, and still easily replaceable. My point is simply that we should make wear points easily replaceable when possible particularly when the cost of doing so is nill. 

Holy shock load Batman!

Tradiban wrote:

Holy shock load Batman!

The rope is in the system to eliminate the shock load worries.  If this bothers you, you should never lead and fall on a bolt or gear. 

climber pat wrote:

The rope is in the system to eliminate the shock load worries.  If this bothers you, you should never lead and fall on a bolt or gear. 

You’re failing to consider micro-fractures.

Tradiban wrote:

You’re failing to consider micro-fractures.

It was made in a socialist country!

Jim Titt wrote:

It was made in a socialist country!

In that case, macro-fractures  

An example of a worn steel ring. This one was located so it was trapped against a bulge and could not easily spin. I have been converting single ring anchors like this to longer setups. Many of the rings are more than 25 years old and this is the only example I have found with significant grooves.

And you will note the wear was initiated by the weld stopping rotation.

Jim Titt wrote:

And you will note the wear was initiated by the weld stopping rotation.

The whole configuration sucks, the rings are almost always jammed against the rock on top of the welds not being smooth and allowing rotation. Vertical and overhanging the hangers flex like springs when weighted.

i love threads like this. useful.