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Standard Index Aid Rack

Original Post
Bryce Henderson · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 668

The sharp end guidebook and many of the route descriptions here on MP mention (in less detail than I’d like) a “standard index aid rack.” If you’re one of the few who regularly aid climb at index what’s on your rack?

More specifically how many and which kinds of beaks pins and offset/brass micro nuts will I need?

John Clark · · BLC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408

Wait, I want to hear the story behind how you ended up with two sets of ball-nuts

Bryce Henderson · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 668

My justification is wanting to rope solo roadkill crag outside of clarkston, I’ve found they work well as ground anchors.

A better reason is I love the way they look and there are some lonely voices who swear by them for marginal placements.

Princess Puppy Lovr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 1,756

Given the lack of responses, I think city park is probably the most commonly aided route in index. I would maybe DM kyle, since he seems to like Aid climbing and here is his aid climb since no one else here has responded.

Weston Spivia · · Lake Stevens · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 20

Totally off topic: I am looking for partners for aid climbing at Index and would be available on weekends. I also love free climbing, so that could also be on the menu. Hit me up here or send me a message. I’d be stoked to connect with some people and get out! I have a good selection of clean aid gear and a bosun chair for some added comfort. 

John Patton · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 30

Hey Weston I’m looking for aid partners at Index would love to work up to doing Green Drag on and Town Crier this summer

Robert Meshew · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 65

I would add for a Index aid rack -- a couple of cam hooks work very well there and save a ton of time.

Daniel Coltrane · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 481

Mostly small stuff. Ball nuts and cam hooks are useful. Micro nuts also useful. Offset cams not particularly helpful but offset nuts are. Most aid things in index either became forgotten or became free climbs long before it turned into pin scars. TPMV on the LTW is a good example of this. Once an aid climb it got bolted and became a free climb in the 90s.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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